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Old 05-22-2020, 10:02 PM   #22
Jeff/Illinois
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,789
Default Re: Checking an Ignition Ballast Resistor

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSeery View Post
Is there some confusion here? Voltage to a 1.5 ohm coil should be full system voltage, 6+ volts. You may be thinking of the voltage to an original distributor mounted coil.

I have never checked it, but the claim is reversing polarity at the coil results in about 80% loss of coil output. For a positive ground vehicle it should be supply voltage from the ignition switch connects to the (-) terminal and the (+) terminal connects to the distributor (points/capacitor).
Today I had the time to by-pass the resistor under the dash, and did as you said, moving the ignition switch to resistor wire over to the 'out' side of the resistor so it follows the red wire directly to the neg. post on the coil now. Can type coil internal resistor measures 1.5 ohms at the coil.

I have 6.1V at the ignition switch and 5.9V at the negative post on the coil. I just don't seem to be getting anything out of the distributor. I'm figuring the points have arced or burned or something. The '36 started sputtering losing power, came out of it got about 2 miles and then quietly shut down.

First thing I thought of was fuel, the accelerator pump is working I'm getting gas to the carb, first thing I did when I got home was dribble a little gasoline in the carb and still couldn't get it to pop. This is on a Stromberg 97 that had a rebuild 2-3 years ago from a very very reputable guy, a Stromberg guru.

Anyway I'm more of a Model A guy flatheads are still new to me. When a Model A acts like this '36 did, it is points closing up about 90% of the time that is real common. Even a weak condensor on a Model A Ford will give you some power at the engine, just makes the A run weak. I just guess I'm prejudiced in that way of thinking, been around Model A's since 1971.

I hold the coil wire to ground and my wife cranks it and there is no spark. Put a new NAPA FA 54 condensor on no change (didn't have the facilities to have that condensor checked possible it is bad out of the box, Made in Mexico usually there stuff is pretty decent.)

Nothing wrong with the starting circuit this truck cranks like a new car really turns over.

I am going to call Jim at Bubba's and speak with him, after that I will get back on here and let you all know what happened. It has to be something simple I'll keep picking at it. I've never changed points on a flathead distributor, I am assuming you have to set them up on a Sun machine.

Thanks to all for the help and advice, it's greatly appreciated I'll be back..........
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