Quote:
Originally Posted by koates
hardtimes, the generator on your car is from a 1933 Ford. It has no cooling openings in the end plates which means it is not capable of any more safe maximum output than about 10 amps continuous operation. The 1934 Ford generator had cooling openings in the end housing and an integral fan cast into the pulley which means it had a higher safe output of approx. 15 amps. Your generator third brush setting should be set at no more than 10 amps maximum. If it is set higher than that, then the result will be a burnt out armature. The ""TRANSPO"" diode cut out will work OK on both 6 and 12 volts. It will also work OK on NEG or POS ground by turning it around on its mounting and swapping the two connections around. Take notice of the instruction sticker on the side of the cut out. I don't like using a 6 volt generator in a 12 volt system. One drawback is that the generator will have to be revved up higher before it starts to charge. 6 volt generators were designed to operate in 6 volt systems by electrical engineers and do not operate to their best on 12 volt systems. You cant just guess at what you are doing with this stuff, it has to be done correctly otherwise you will be in more trouble than Jessie James. Regards, Kevin.
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Ha ha...more trouble than Jesse James !
I'm had some 'trouble', more or less most of life...Jesse was a friend of mine !!
Anyway, you say its a '33. I believe it, as this is on my '32 five window.
The coupe was restored sometime back and has done ok yet. But, this electrical thingy ,i.e.- part 12V (battry) and part 6V who knows what is total BS, eh !
I'm thinking the OLD dude or some dummy just installed a 12v
battery in a stock duece.
If so, that would explain several things...namely, NO lights ! Most likely blew every bulb in the car ?
Guess I'd better start digging into what this mess consists of. I can't believe someone would do that and it never occurred to me. time for a systtem check.