The Ford Barn - View Single Post - white steam from breather and water tailpipe

Bored&Stroked · 05-24-2020, 09:35 AM

How long ago was this engine built and how many miles on it? To me it does not look like a fresh new build - but hard to tell with the size and resolution of your photos. Also, I don't believe I see any 'relief' being done between the valves and the bores - this was in the build sheet, but it wasn't done. I wonder how many other things were not done - or maybe you have a used engine? If you blow a head gasket, you can still get water down into the oil - as the rings have end-gaps and the water will run through them if it blows and then the engine sits.

I'd love to see some bigger and better/hi-resolution pictures of the intake ports, the cylinder walls and the deck surface. If it was mine, I'd pull all the studs and really clean the deck surfaces well - they should be super clean before you start the new head-gasket assembly process. Make sure you use a high-quality stud sealer on the studs as you put them back in, with anti-seize on the sides of them and thread torque-lube on the fine threads.

Note: You have ARP studs - they are the best you can run with one of these engines.

Where are you located? If you need additional help, just send me a PM.

05-24-2020, 09:35 AM	#72
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,067	Re: white steam from breather and water tailpipe How long ago was this engine built and how many miles on it? To me it does not look like a fresh new build - but hard to tell with the size and resolution of your photos. Also, I don't believe I see any 'relief' being done between the valves and the bores - this was in the build sheet, but it wasn't done. I wonder how many other things were not done - or maybe you have a used engine? If you blow a head gasket, you can still get water down into the oil - as the rings have end-gaps and the water will run through them if it blows and then the engine sits. I'd love to see some bigger and better/hi-resolution pictures of the intake ports, the cylinder walls and the deck surface. If it was mine, I'd pull all the studs and really clean the deck surfaces well - they should be super clean before you start the new head-gasket assembly process. Make sure you use a high-quality stud sealer on the studs as you put them back in, with anti-seize on the sides of them and thread torque-lube on the fine threads. Note: You have ARP studs - they are the best you can run with one of these engines. Where are you located? If you need additional help, just send me a PM.