[jb-ob]

Dave,

Re Post 38. Installing one new brake shoe, the drum is not 'locked' but rather it is jammed. If you continued to replace one new shoe on each corner and test drove, I suspect strongly your stopping would be MUCH worse.

Starting with post #1, you stated you had cast iron drums cut & shoes arched to match. I'm going to guess this work was done correctly by a professional machinist.....someone who would have advised you if your cast iron brake drums where unsafely over size.
You should not be changing this drum / brake shoe relationship, it's not the problem.

Where the brake shoe roller tracks either replaced or rebuilt to factory 'specs' ?? You didn't say.

If the roller tracks are correct, the shoes assembled correctly & installed on the backing plates correctly, the brake adjusting wedge will expand the shoes until the shoes lock the drum, hard. If not, something inside is wrong.

After all four corners are locked hard, any free play with the brakes on the backing plates has been removed. NOW go ahead and set the brake rods.

Finish by backing out the adjusters until the wheels spin evenly. Road test making only minor adjustments at the adjuster.
If you need to re-open a brake drum to correct a problem, the brake rod should be reset.

The Model A brake system is very simple but it requires all moving parts to be correct.

Keep checking.