[johndee138]

I just finished the top on my 36 3 window. The diagram above is almost complete. Inboard from the larger L shaped channel is a smaller channel groove that is about 3/16" wide. I think that groove would accept some fabric that had been stretched over the wood bows giving a base for the padding and wire mesh to rest on.The rubber welting used for window screen wire hold down would work well. That's what I used. Then on to the padding. I used 1/4" poly-fill in layers and 1 layer of foil covered closed cell foam like I had used in the body for insulation. The amount of layers used is up to the owner. I got my marine grade vinyl topper from Albrights Supply in Mississippi. (good prices and quick shipper) I used a Carpenter seal, there was enough to cut some shortys to press everything into place and then go for the final PUSH. Keep some slippery dish soap in a sprayer to help. It is really hard on arthritic finger joints but I got it done. after all the big piece was installed I used an Exacto knife and ran it around under the vinyl and above the metal of the roof cutting the excess off against the fat part of the seal strip. Take care not to scratch your paint masking tape would help. I put the joint in the middle in the back which necessitated sitting on the catwalk to get everything tight and perfect. My paint was so slippery that even with a non slip carpet pad and extra padding I still slid off and landed on my head. No damage. If I did it again I would probably set up a scaffold of some kind. The seal strip requires a good bit of direct downward pressure to find it's final place and it is, quite frankly, a BITCH of a job to do. I used a large rubber mallet, a 1" wooden dowel to tamp with, assorted small tapered metal pieces to pry and lift with, SHARP Exacto knife for trimming, the dish soap, lotsa cursing and copious amounts of Aleve upon completion. My hands still hurt.