Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart
Even with a rebuilt distributor, I would check to see if the points have "furred up" while standing. How long ago was it done?
You need to see if you have a spark.
Take one lead off and fit it to a spare plug with the plug resting on the head. It doesn't need a great ground to the head. A good spark will jump the gap.
When you turn the ignition on, does the ammeter jump towards the discharge side?
Take the coil off the distributor.
Put your multimeter on the contact inside the distributor where the metal prong of the coil low tension side fits into and set to measure continuity.
As the crank turns two revs (by hand ideally) you should get eight ground/no ground cycles at the connection. The ground part of the cycle should be over three times as long as the non ground part of the cycle.
What I am trying to establish is are the points working.
If the points are working, and the coil is good, and the condenser is connected correctly there is no reason why you should not have a spark.
An off the wall thought.. Are you sure the distributor is turning? A remote possibility is that you have a short cam and the adaptor button is missing. Did you feel the distributor fall into place with a solid engagement into the slot? Can you see it turning if you tak the coil or a side plate off?
Have you checked and double checked you have all the plug leads in the correct locations?
Lots of questions. I wish I was close enough to look over your shoulder and help directly.
Does anyone live nearby that could drop by and help??
Mart.
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Okay I have the coil off and I am able to see that the distributor is spinning correctly. I have also cleaned the ground for the condenser it was caked it lots of paint. Now as you described checking the points I am figuring I need to have the coil back on to test this right?