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Gene F · 03-06-2021, 07:18 PM

The final verdict on my repairs.

The B carb overhaul is complete. The weather is decent here today 43F and sunny, even though there is snow stacked up.

I set the fuel level (float) last week to within 1/16" last weekend. Adding a washer to the valve under the float did the trick. The test drive today, although not up to top end speed, because I'm still breaking in my engine, indicates it's fixed. Now, when I step on the gas (to the floor) the engine does not "nose over that last 1/4" of accelerator pedal travel. The power jet tube was the problem all along. After I took the carb out of the Berryman Chem Dip I noticed that there was still crud in the air passage that goes to that little well in the casting around the top half of the carb. The passage goes over to the power jet tube. Obviously it was softened up, but it still was not clear. I didn't want to take that out. I have heard too many horror stories about that tube kinking, snapping off, or ya can't get it back in, etc. I took a 1/16" drill bit IN MY FINGERS, and carefully cleaned that crud outta there. Then I used a toothpick. Got it cleaned out, and blown out to where I was satisfied with it. Carefully paid attention to gasket alignment when I put the two sections back together. It seems to run like it should now. I'm confident when the time comes to open it up, it will perform as expected.

I will add this. I adjusted my carb with the GAV open about 1/4 turn open. I adjusted my air fuel screw in to not quite 1 turn open in the driveway after warmup. Then when I was test driving it today I got out and played with the air fuel screw again. Turned it in about 1/4 turn more. I know every thing I read says 1 1/2 turns and go from there. However, it just seems to run the best overall (primarily idle, of course) turned in quite a bit from that initial setting. I noticed the same thing before I took the thing off and overhauled it. The tailpipe sounds right too when it idles with the spark retarded.

I'd be surprised if I ever open the GAV except when I'm in the hills (small mountains occasionally here). It seems to start and run just fine at 1/4 open.

So far I'm pretty happy with it. It's not a race car. I just want it to run good.

THANKS for the info guys.

03-06-2021, 07:18 PM	#22
Gene F Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,973	Re: B Carb Questions The final verdict on my repairs. The B carb overhaul is complete. The weather is decent here today 43F and sunny, even though there is snow stacked up. I set the fuel level (float) last week to within 1/16" last weekend. Adding a washer to the valve under the float did the trick. The test drive today, although not up to top end speed, because I'm still breaking in my engine, indicates it's fixed. Now, when I step on the gas (to the floor) the engine does not "nose over that last 1/4" of accelerator pedal travel. The power jet tube was the problem all along. After I took the carb out of the Berryman Chem Dip I noticed that there was still crud in the air passage that goes to that little well in the casting around the top half of the carb. The passage goes over to the power jet tube. Obviously it was softened up, but it still was not clear. I didn't want to take that out. I have heard too many horror stories about that tube kinking, snapping off, or ya can't get it back in, etc. I took a 1/16" drill bit IN MY FINGERS, and carefully cleaned that crud outta there. Then I used a toothpick. Got it cleaned out, and blown out to where I was satisfied with it. Carefully paid attention to gasket alignment when I put the two sections back together. It seems to run like it should now. I'm confident when the time comes to open it up, it will perform as expected. I will add this. I adjusted my carb with the GAV open about 1/4 turn open. I adjusted my air fuel screw in to not quite 1 turn open in the driveway after warmup. Then when I was test driving it today I got out and played with the air fuel screw again. Turned it in about 1/4 turn more. I know every thing I read says 1 1/2 turns and go from there. However, it just seems to run the best overall (primarily idle, of course) turned in quite a bit from that initial setting. I noticed the same thing before I took the thing off and overhauled it. The tailpipe sounds right too when it idles with the spark retarded. I'd be surprised if I ever open the GAV except when I'm in the hills (small mountains occasionally here). It seems to start and run just fine at 1/4 open. So far I'm pretty happy with it. It's not a race car. I just want it to run good. THANKS for the info guys.