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Originally Posted by Russell Reay
Visited a frame shop in town today--they are scheduling into October! The owner described chaining the frame to the 'frame machine' and applying pressure with a Port-a-Power. I don't see how that is any different than Les's method. I understand metal shrinking on thin sheet metal (never tried it, though) , but how would you shrink something as heavy as frame steel (10 ga?) ?
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Russell, with no disrespect to Les and his book, I will just say that not everything that is printed in that book is totally accurate. Others will confirm this. This topic of frame straightening has been covered several times on this site with a full explanation of the process. The search function on this site is your friend.
Also, you likely need to find another frame shop that is more familiar with the process. In a nutshell, your frame has been stretched to create the bend. If someone uses a jack (i.e.: Porta-power) to move the rail, what they are effectively doing is just bending the metal in a different direction. Now you have two separate bends, and not a corrected bend. A knowledgeable craftsman can straighten your frame and never have a jack (-or Porta-power) within sight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by todd3131
I for one would like to know how you end up squaring it up.
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The way we do it is use a tram gauge and measure in a diagonal 'X' pattern to compare measurements. I have copies of the A-5005-* frame drawings that gives the dimensions from certain holes or attachment points.
To square a skewed frame, compression is placed on the longest tangent to pull the frame back square. (-think 'come-along winch' or turnbuckle & cables to pull with) At that point where it is back within specification, it is best to heat and re-buck all of the rivets at the crossmembers to hold the A-5015/16 Frame Side Member (rails) square with each other. This process is best done after the side members have been straightened both in a horizontal and vertical direction.