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Ketronj281989 · 10-31-2020, 03:32 PM

Thanks guys for all the comments and suggestions.

Several things I have since completed since your postings:

I was able to check what tubes were visible on the top of the interior of the radiator. Appears most of the visible tubes appear to have small pebble looking objects wedged inside (likely sediment/rust?).

I did purchase 3 lbs. of caustic soda to run through the cooling system. Right now the radiator is out of the car for further inspection, may leave this chemical on the shelf for the time being. The 1940 Ford "Page" book also mentioned this method for cleaning. I do not have aluminum heads so should be ok to perform this test if desired.

I have the water pumps out of the car and will be sending to Skip post November.

I have been thinking about the rust in the block, this will likely stay an issue unless I pull the motor and have the blocked cleaned (aka rebuilt). This item will remain on the list, although an engine rebuild will likely not occur unless my compression test results are poor (have yet to perform this test at this time)

There was mention of engine timing. Someone has been into the car prior and replaced the stock unit with a post 1937 unit. They did not properly time the unit either. will be replacing with a period stock 1936 early distributor/coil unit soon and re-adjust post installation.

I would had previously taken the car for a drive to troubleshoot the cooling system. The issue is the car reliability, it's not really road worthy just yet after a 30+ year storage and dangerous to drive down the road at this time. A 10 min outing showed the car overheating having to pull off the side of the road and let cool down again.

There was mention of putting a large box fan in front of the grille while idle. I did this and the car did not overheat sitting in the drive way after 40 min. Instead the car died as I am too having carb. issues. (now removed and will be replaced in the coming months).

Moving forward once the car is road-worthy, I will perform cooling tests while driving with the car under load moving down the road with increased air flow under normal driving conditions.

Will be sure to check those 4 expansion plugs once the pan is dropped this winter!! Thanks for the tip.

10-31-2020, 03:32 PM	#17
Ketronj281989 Member Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Lexington KY Posts: 58	Re: 1936 Overheating Problem Thanks guys for all the comments and suggestions. Several things I have since completed since your postings: I was able to check what tubes were visible on the top of the interior of the radiator. Appears most of the visible tubes appear to have small pebble looking objects wedged inside (likely sediment/rust?). I did purchase 3 lbs. of caustic soda to run through the cooling system. Right now the radiator is out of the car for further inspection, may leave this chemical on the shelf for the time being. The 1940 Ford "Page" book also mentioned this method for cleaning. I do not have aluminum heads so should be ok to perform this test if desired. I have the water pumps out of the car and will be sending to Skip post November. I have been thinking about the rust in the block, this will likely stay an issue unless I pull the motor and have the blocked cleaned (aka rebuilt). This item will remain on the list, although an engine rebuild will likely not occur unless my compression test results are poor (have yet to perform this test at this time) There was mention of engine timing. Someone has been into the car prior and replaced the stock unit with a post 1937 unit. They did not properly time the unit either. will be replacing with a period stock 1936 early distributor/coil unit soon and re-adjust post installation. I would had previously taken the car for a drive to troubleshoot the cooling system. The issue is the car reliability, it's not really road worthy just yet after a 30+ year storage and dangerous to drive down the road at this time. A 10 min outing showed the car overheating having to pull off the side of the road and let cool down again. There was mention of putting a large box fan in front of the grille while idle. I did this and the car did not overheat sitting in the drive way after 40 min. Instead the car died as I am too having carb. issues. (now removed and will be replaced in the coming months). Moving forward once the car is road-worthy, I will perform cooling tests while driving with the car under load moving down the road with increased air flow under normal driving conditions. Will be sure to check those 4 expansion plugs once the pan is dropped this winter!! Thanks for the tip.