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Bored&Stroked · 08-05-2019, 07:18 AM

If the studs were removed and put back in, then you're probably leaking on the coarse threads in the block. This is really common in flathead V8's - especially if somebody ran a "normal tap" through the threads in the block (bad idea). What I usually do is buy the ARP Teflon sealer - comes in a tube. Clean all the studs on a wire wheel, apply the Teflon sealer, reinstall them, put it all back together (let it sit for at least a day), then fire it back up. This "cures" just about all leaking stud issues. Best of luck!

PS: This is also why I use ARP studs - with the little allen/hex-head receiver in the top. This makes it possible to pull individual studs and NOT have to remove a head. Then, I can fix a "leaker" is no time at all. Also, in the case of Flatheads and aluminum heads, makes it a WHOLE LOT easier to pull the heads at a later date - as I pull the studs first.

08-05-2019, 07:18 AM	#12
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,110	Re: Need to replace headgasket If the studs were removed and put back in, then you're probably leaking on the coarse threads in the block. This is really common in flathead V8's - especially if somebody ran a "normal tap" through the threads in the block (bad idea). What I usually do is buy the ARP Teflon sealer - comes in a tube. Clean all the studs on a wire wheel, apply the Teflon sealer, reinstall them, put it all back together (let it sit for at least a day), then fire it back up. This "cures" just about all leaking stud issues. Best of luck! PS: This is also why I use ARP studs - with the little allen/hex-head receiver in the top. This makes it possible to pull individual studs and NOT have to remove a head. Then, I can fix a "leaker" is no time at all. Also, in the case of Flatheads and aluminum heads, makes it a WHOLE LOT easier to pull the heads at a later date - as I pull the studs first.