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VeryTangled · 01-20-2021, 01:24 PM

Hi Everyone. jkflathead, I hope this isn't too far off topic from your question of does anyone make a '35 hydrostatic sending unit.

Sorry for the longwinded post, feel free to skip!

I don't know how much you drive your car, or if you want it to look factory correct but I have a couple of comments on how I've dealt with the 1935 hydrostatic fuel quantity gauge and 'unspecific' readings. Maybe my comments add to the topic.

I have driven long distances at times. One factor in fuel quantity for me is the tendency of my 35 and my 36 to try to spill fuel onto the fender in specific conditions. These conditions include a left hand turn, and a 3/4-ish-or-more full fuel tank.

I've also seen at least three cars on show fields that were spilling while just sitting there because their tanks had been topped-up and the heat of the day was causing fuel expansion and overflow.

Because of that I'm usually not filling more than about 5/8-ish full, and making more frequent stops. Also the fuller the tank is the more tendency of the filling process to cause burping fuel onto the fender. You might have noticed you need to fill these tanks more slowly than typical pumps flow these days at full blast. I can always get a hundred miles out of a fuel stop, and I've learned to live with this method.

Another factor is the gauge systems which differ between 36 (electric) and 35 (hydrostatic), and adjusting/calibrating their accuracy. This is assuming you can get your system to work at all and I've got doubts about making lasting repairs to hydrostatic units with their fiddly colored fluid.

Both my cars have had work on the senders, which I've found better luck with something from the period, vs. something made in the last twenty years or so.

For my '35, I ended up having a cruddy tank. So I used a '36 tank, an electric sender, and a '36 gauge in the dash (but the filler necks are different, only the '35 neck fits the '35 fender).

Even with a working system, for both my cars, it's not happening getting the gauge to work from top to bottom with any reliable data being delivered. I guess I can pull the sender, bend the float arm, and try repeatedly until I get happy, but after about three times pulling a sender it gets old.

I have ended up being satisfied with calibrating my eye to the gauge in the car, and knowing when I have about 1/4 tank left. I have only been able to do this because I've got thousands of miles on each car.

I've never run my '36 out of fuel, but I've done it more than a couple of times in my '35. The '35's gauge was missing when I got it, so switching up to the incorrect setup ended up being the way to go for me and the driver/beater quality of my '35.

Sorry for the longwinded post.

01-20-2021, 01:24 PM	#12
VeryTangled Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: (Not far enough...) Outside of DC Posts: 3,387	Re: 1935 Hydrostatic Sending Unit Hi Everyone. jkflathead, I hope this isn't too far off topic from your question of does anyone make a '35 hydrostatic sending unit. Sorry for the longwinded post, feel free to skip! I don't know how much you drive your car, or if you want it to look factory correct but I have a couple of comments on how I've dealt with the 1935 hydrostatic fuel quantity gauge and 'unspecific' readings. Maybe my comments add to the topic. I have driven long distances at times. One factor in fuel quantity for me is the tendency of my 35 and my 36 to try to spill fuel onto the fender in specific conditions. These conditions include a left hand turn, and a 3/4-ish-or-more full fuel tank. I've also seen at least three cars on show fields that were spilling while just sitting there because their tanks had been topped-up and the heat of the day was causing fuel expansion and overflow. Because of that I'm usually not filling more than about 5/8-ish full, and making more frequent stops. Also the fuller the tank is the more tendency of the filling process to cause burping fuel onto the fender. You might have noticed you need to fill these tanks more slowly than typical pumps flow these days at full blast. I can always get a hundred miles out of a fuel stop, and I've learned to live with this method. Another factor is the gauge systems which differ between 36 (electric) and 35 (hydrostatic), and adjusting/calibrating their accuracy. This is assuming you can get your system to work at all and I've got doubts about making lasting repairs to hydrostatic units with their fiddly colored fluid. Both my cars have had work on the senders, which I've found better luck with something from the period, vs. something made in the last twenty years or so. For my '35, I ended up having a cruddy tank. So I used a '36 tank, an electric sender, and a '36 gauge in the dash (but the filler necks are different, only the '35 neck fits the '35 fender). Even with a working system, for both my cars, it's not happening getting the gauge to work from top to bottom with any reliable data being delivered. I guess I can pull the sender, bend the float arm, and try repeatedly until I get happy, but after about three times pulling a sender it gets old. I have ended up being satisfied with calibrating my eye to the gauge in the car, and knowing when I have about 1/4 tank left. I have only been able to do this because I've got thousands of miles on each car. I've never run my '36 out of fuel, but I've done it more than a couple of times in my '35. The '35's gauge was missing when I got it, so switching up to the incorrect setup ended up being the way to go for me and the driver/beater quality of my '35. Sorry for the longwinded post. __________________ -Jeff H Have you thought about supporting the Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum?