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Kevin in NJ · 08-19-2018, 05:51 PM

So here is the deal...

A&L sells the correct parts, find out where bratton's sources their parts. A&L repro the sliders properly. I personally used some NOS later V8 sliders that were close to correct but had a tail and I think needed a relief cut in the back with a dremel.

They all originally were selling the wrong springs. There were TOO stiff. When assembled the sliders MUST slide the whole length with moderate finger pressure. This is how the originals were and how your must be. The springs were so stiff you could not close the door without hurting the male dovetail. A&L Corrected this after the owner tryed the parts on his own car and the door would not shut. He remembered some jerk telling him the springs were wrong and tried another spring and all was good.

The whole unit they sell for the 68C may stick out too far. This can be fixed by milling or sanding the back side to the same thickness as the factory plates.

FWIW, the sample unit A&L shows at the flea markets was the one I gave them. Yes I was the jerk telling them about the parts.

08-19-2018, 05:51 PM	#10
Kevin in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South East NJ Posts: 3,398	Re: 1931 S/W Door Female Dovetail Latches So here is the deal... A&L sells the correct parts, find out where bratton's sources their parts. A&L repro the sliders properly. I personally used some NOS later V8 sliders that were close to correct but had a tail and I think needed a relief cut in the back with a dremel. They all originally were selling the wrong springs. There were TOO stiff. When assembled the sliders MUST slide the whole length with moderate finger pressure. This is how the originals were and how your must be. The springs were so stiff you could not close the door without hurting the male dovetail. A&L Corrected this after the owner tryed the parts on his own car and the door would not shut. He remembered some jerk telling him the springs were wrong and tried another spring and all was good. The whole unit they sell for the 68C may stick out too far. This can be fixed by milling or sanding the back side to the same thickness as the factory plates. FWIW, the sample unit A&L shows at the flea markets was the one I gave them. Yes I was the jerk telling them about the parts.