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It's important to have good quality drill bits in sizes that allow a person to choose a size that is no larger than the original shank diameter. I use cobalt bits for steel rivets. Center punch the rivet head as close to center of the head as possible. Drill through the head but try not to drill too far down into the shank. Use a pin punch the same diameter as the rivet shank and place it.in the drilled hole. Pull the punch off to the side and the rivet head should pop off. Use a chisel if it won't pop off. Drive the remaining shank and buck tail out the other side.
The advantage of this method is that if the drilled hole was a bit off center then a person can tell after the head is off. If the shank won't budge then drill farther down while maintaining center. This will keep from elongation the holes. If the holes get too large or elongated then it will have to be welded up and redrilled.
Mark your locations well as to where the member is located on the rails before removing it. When fitting the replacement, align it to the marks. If holes don't align then either the rail or the member will need non-aligning holes welded up to redrill them. Install the member with correct size bolts first. Check frame alignment by cross measuring from front to rear on both sides and check rails with a long straight edge for any sign of bend or twist. If the frame checks out OK then the cross member rivets can be installed and bucked while removing bolts one at a time. This will be enough to keep the member in alignment during the riveting process. Check frame alignment again an perform straightening as needed. An I beam, chain, and a bottle jack can be used to affectively straighten a frame. Reinforcement depends on how much it was bent. It's surprising how well replacement members will fit a model A frame. One or two holes might be off but they are surprisingly close in fit when I've replaced them. Others may have different experiences than I so I can't guarantee a good fit in all situations. Be prepared to weld up some holes.