[V8COOPMAN]

stude333 …...I have a friend in Florida that got lucky and found an OLD drive shaft shop, with an OLD dude in the rear of the shop that had been doing that kind of stuff for eons. This old guy took on the shortening of my bud's '35 drive shaft and torque tube for a modified Chevy T5 transmission upgrade like it was a challenge, did a beautiful job, and the money was ridiculously reasonable. Looking like that ain't gonna happen in your case, here's what I would do. Contact Richard or Dennis Lacy at the "Early V8 Garage" in West Covina. They specialize in converting pre-'39 Fords to hydraulic brakes, among other specialized and unique modifications and upgrades that they have performed over the years. If they can't handle your job, they have enough history with these types of specialty service providers in the So Cal area that they should be able to head you in the right direction. They are:


Richard or Dennis Lacy
Early V8 Garage
1217 N. Azusa Canyon Rd.,
West Covina, Ca. 91790-1004
626-338-2282

You know, you have a lot of variables going-on when mixing-up '34 and '35 rear ends, just so that you are aware. PRECISE measurements are critical to assure the rear wheels sit correctly in the rear fender opening. For one thing, the '34 rear spring and crossmember are both curved, with the spring ends arcing forward where they meet the spring shackles. The '35 spring and crossmember are straight. Additionally, the '35 rear axle/banjo housings have several modifications dimensionally and structurally over the '34. The front surface on the banjo housing where the torque tube bolts on is 9/16" farther forward of the axle centerline on the '35-'48 banjo housings. This would effectively require that 9/16" dimension to be figured-into the NEW length. The most important dimension to shoot for (MY opinion) when shortening drive shaft is between centerline of speedo drive gear on front of drive shaft (as the drive shaft and torque tube is snugged-up to the trans in an operational configuration)….and the locating-pin HOLE located in the rear end pinion splines. This is your critical drive shaft measurement. With that distance mocked-up, you must then measure the distance between the SECURED torque tube bell at the front....and the torque tube bolt FLANGE surface on the rear end banjo housing. This will give overall t-tube length. Also, while making sure that the speedo gear lines-up in the hole in the torque tube, also make sure that the same hole in t-tube for speedo turtle is clocked appropriately to aim the speedo cable in correct direction. One last precaution....note that there is a small lube oil drain hole near the bottom-most bolt hole in the face of the t-tube bolt surface on front of banjo housing. There is a corresponding drain hole/slot on the t-tube bolt flange. Those two MUST remain aligned. Hope this all helps! DD