[Joe K]

Pete's instruction seem generally spot on - he's welding with material with 100K effective tensile strength (which is probably 80K when the previous 80 percent of yield is considered.) Still, pretty good overlay, probably better than the original.

However, I might not "cut" the thread - the original thread was "rolled." Instructions today for refreshing the thread on the axle generally go to a "thread reformer" of which there are several versions around, and all do not cut thread but rather "mush" it back into dimensional conformance.

Rolled thread tends to be stronger than cut - which is why most grade 8 bolts today incorporate rolled thread. In fact MOST commercial bolts today incorporate rolled thread since that allows selection of a cheaper steel and yet attain the necessary ANSI property as a bolt.

I have "cleaned" up an axle thread using a "little giant" tap & die - a die system which allows adjustment of the die cut. I start out "loose" and cut the minimum amount of thread necessary to get the nut to start - then use the nut to "form" the thread.

NOW I have a clamp-style thread reformer. Much superior and less chance of crossing the thread with the die.

Joe K