Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster
You can use any degree wheel available all thats needed is the center hole in the wheel needs to be large enough for the crank bolt diameter. You may need to make some type of adapter to hold the wheel on center once you have it but thats relatively simple. The steps needed to degree the cam is not extremely difficult but it will take some time to get a feel for it. One important detail to remember is your checking the timing events with zero valve lash. Now some would say to check the timing event at the lifter thats ones choice however checking the actual valve movement event will show you exactly whats taking place and is much easier than trying to indicate off the lifter. Also another detail I find helpful use a very light spring to hold the valve and retainer together. The spring helps the valve on the closing side of the event follow the cam lobe. Doing all of this is best performed on the engine with just cylinder number ones piston assembly installed {i do it with no rings} and only the valves in cylinder number one. Usually when i do this on any engine it takes a number of days work checking and then correcting the cam position. Its not one of my favored jobs but its worth the effort.
Ronnieroadster
|
I install an adjustable lifter and adjust it so the valve does not seat. Easy to indicate off the top of the valve. Also, the bigger the degree wheel, the easier to read.