Quote:
Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C
Additionally, you probably need to purchase copies of the factory prints of both the sockets and the roof bows so you can get the measurements correct. I did this some years ago and they are invaluable. I can give you the individual Ford part numbers if you like.
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Yes. Definitely! With the part numbers, where do we go to get prints?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C
The best way we have found is to fixture the socket so it retains the correct curvature (-i.e.: shape) when the wood infrastructure is added. If you do not support the socket before installing the wood, the drying wood will try to distort (straighten) the socket metal. We use ¼" strips of Ash that we have steamed. Then the strip is inserted into the socket once it has been dipped in a water soluble marine glue. The issue you will find is you must work quickly as the glue tends to become sticky as you are trying to push each of the strips into the socket which does not allow the strips to slide amongst themselves. You will also need to deform part of the socket prior to installing the wood and then use heat on the metal to allow it to form around the wood. Once everything has dried and taken set, you may need to put the socket in a press to 'tweak' it back to the factory dimensions.
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This is very helpful - and daunting! What would you say to using a 2+ pound expanding foam? It would definitely provide structural support and conform completely to the inside of the steel. The goal would be: hard enough to support, but not so hard that staples can't penetrate.