The Ford Barn - View Single Post

Slik · 05-10-2015, 07:03 PM

Well, after 30 years the old Woody is running albeit not very well. Idles nicely after carb adjustment.
Took it out for a ride and it was pretty easy to diagnose a bad miss. No power whatsoever.

I did compression tests and have 68-70 across all 4 cylinders. The car had new valves prior to being stored and my brother told me that one of the reasons my father put it way was because #3 exhaust valve was sticking and causing it to overheat.
I pulled the valve cover, springs and guides cleaned them all up, along with the value stems. Reinserted the guides and the valves slide nicely.
Got it all back together, started fine, idles ok but still now power. I shorted the plugs, Shorting #1 and #2 caused a significant drop - shorting #3 and #4 had no effect on the idle. Have plenty of spark to all plugs. Rotor gapped correctly, points adjusted and timing is spot on. Also validated the cap is good.
I have a pretty good exhaust leak at #4 (I think the gland ring is hung up) - I'll work to correct that tomorrow. I'll also try the starter fluid trick around the intake to see if there is a leak there.
Any other suggestions or things I might try ?

Also, is there a reliable way to adjust the valves without pulling the head ? Prior to reassembling the top end I relapped the valves and adjusted the valves but I'd like to double check them if possible.

05-10-2015, 07:03 PM	#1
Slik Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: La Plata, MD Posts: 60	#3 & #4 cylinders Well, after 30 years the old Woody is running albeit not very well. Idles nicely after carb adjustment. Took it out for a ride and it was pretty easy to diagnose a bad miss. No power whatsoever. I did compression tests and have 68-70 across all 4 cylinders. The car had new valves prior to being stored and my brother told me that one of the reasons my father put it way was because #3 exhaust valve was sticking and causing it to overheat. I pulled the valve cover, springs and guides cleaned them all up, along with the value stems. Reinserted the guides and the valves slide nicely. Got it all back together, started fine, idles ok but still now power. I shorted the plugs, Shorting #1 and #2 caused a significant drop - shorting #3 and #4 had no effect on the idle. Have plenty of spark to all plugs. Rotor gapped correctly, points adjusted and timing is spot on. Also validated the cap is good. I have a pretty good exhaust leak at #4 (I think the gland ring is hung up) - I'll work to correct that tomorrow. I'll also try the starter fluid trick around the intake to see if there is a leak there. Any other suggestions or things I might try ? Also, is there a reliable way to adjust the valves without pulling the head ? Prior to reassembling the top end I relapped the valves and adjusted the valves but I'd like to double check them if possible.