Quote:
Originally Posted by Sckxyss
Thanks for all your replies. What's the issue of shaving the deck too much, too little material left or piston clearance. Obviously it stay outside for a long time and the pitting will compromise sealing, two cylinders are pitted too that's why it needed to be sleeved. A crack have been fixed already and the block suppose to have been pressure tested.
I don't think it have been shaved before, you can see a "M" stamped on the surface at the top of the upper cylinder and it's still very clear. I will try to measure the pitting but I will remove the remaining rust with electrolysis before.
Best regards.
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If I were in your shoes, I would find the best antique engine rebuilder in your area.
If it were in my shop, I would treat it as a rare or 'one-off' engine where replacement was not an option. Terry is correct on the pan to deck measurement however if we did not have a measurement (-and I would do this anyway on this particular block) I would use a sonic tester and map out the areas that are pitted to know the thickness in all the areas. If I recall correctly, the Ford print called for 0.375" deck thickness, and as long as it measures 0.350" or greater after a surfacing, you are probably OK. If not, then I would use a TIG and something like Muggy Weld 77 to fill the pits. Preheat the block, fill the larger pits, stress-relieve and resurface. Not going to be cheap, but the repair would be solid.