Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Shaft
From a cost perspective the most expensive part of a rebuild is rod and main bearings,crankshaft and connecting rods.The cost of sleeving bores is up there too. Alot can be done to improve an engine that has decent rod and main bearings and minimal crankshaft thrust without getting too deep cost wise.In versely,a lot of time an money can be wasted trying to 'save' an engine with worn bearings..Engines need to be looked at as a whole,all processes must be in specification for long life,at .100 over with questionable bores and valves my next move would be a bearing inspection if it passes bearing inspection honing bores is a possibility if the bore measures correctly,lapping valves if the seats aren't too far gone,basically an old fashioned overhaul..
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My thoughts exactly. I have already checked the bearings as i had the pan off when I first got it to fix an oil leak and checked/adjusted all the bearings at that time. If the crank/rods/bearings are good the rest can be rebuilt very cheap. For now, I'm going to do the valve guides and see what that does for me. I'm not going to be putting a whole pile of miles on this so putting it back to perfect is not necessary. I just need it serviceable/drivable in reasonable condition. I'll mic the bores and see what I have in that respect. Perhaps, like 30CCPU suggested, it's been bored to .125 but has .100 pistons??. If that turns out to be the case, it's not a big job to change the pistons/rings and deglaze the cylinders. FWIW, I did a compression check when I got it and they were all in the high 50's IIRC. It was definitely using oil through the guides though so I'l fix that first.