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Kohnke Rebabbitting · 03-01-2016, 07:51 PM

OK Boys, know that the engine is one of ours. I seen this post about 10:00 today and waited until now, to get in more comments.

First of all, something has gotten into the bearings, The worst one of the two, all the damage is on the crank side of the Babbitt. I see no tinning problem what so ever, as the babbitt is still in the rod.

Look at the oil grooves, in the bottom of the bad cap. They are the same kind of surface as the whole, or most of the cap, and the crank can not touch the bottom of the grooves, so there has to have been something in between.

Mr. T.B., the mains always will have .002 thousandths clearance here, and the Model A Rods will have .001-75, with .001-60 being Minimum, and .002-10 being Maximum.

Also MR. T. B., Model T, A and B, Fords do not have oil wells. They are only used in pressure bearings, and not always then. I can explain the rest if you want some time on here.

George, the rods are machined on both sides.

When the Babbitt in the cap starts getting thinner, it will knock off the flanges very easily, with the small pieces of Babbitt trying to get out.

Mr. Vicky, 2. It appears that there is material build up on #2, so maybe the cap wasn't flush with the rod when assembled?

Can't Happen.

Now, Giles and I have gotten along real good, (or did), I know he is a God Fearing Man, and tells it, as he knows it.

Giles, calling you about 3 times an asking if you got your engine running, you hadn't until the I think, the 3rd time when you told me that you and your boy had just got it in and were telling me you still didn't have a radiator, as you were waiting on one from some where.

At that time you made me cringe when you said, you had run the motor in the car with no water, and I said oh, that's not good, and you then said, it was only for about 5 minutes, which is way to long, as any running under that condition, is to long, and NEVER should be done.

Nothing else I could say, it was over and done.

I might add, when you run a fresh motor with out water, all the high temps stay around the top of the cylinders, and no way to dissipate the heat evenly. If I also recall, Giles torqued the head again, and that would have made an uneven torque, hot, or cold, because the top of the block, and head were of uneven heat.

Then there was a period of time when you e-Mailed me and said you had a water leak, and you pulled the head, and there was a crack in the block, and sent pictures, which I still have in my other PC, as all your e-Mails.

You said you were going to try to get someone to fix it on your end. You said that you had found some one then, and that is the last I had heard from you, I think ?

So, did you get it fixed?

Who put on the head and torqued it?

From running it with out water, did the pistons score?

Was there antifreeze in the engine?

Again, what kind of oil?

Thanks,

Herm.

03-01-2016, 07:51 PM	#25
Kohnke Rebabbitting Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: 60615,330th Ave.,Clare, Iowa, 50524 Posts: 1,457	Re: Why did this rod fail? OK Boys, know that the engine is one of ours. I seen this post about 10:00 today and waited until now, to get in more comments. First of all, something has gotten into the bearings, The worst one of the two, all the damage is on the crank side of the Babbitt. I see no tinning problem what so ever, as the babbitt is still in the rod. Look at the oil grooves, in the bottom of the bad cap. They are the same kind of surface as the whole, or most of the cap, and the crank can not touch the bottom of the grooves, so there has to have been something in between. Mr. T.B., the mains always will have .002 thousandths clearance here, and the Model A Rods will have .001-75, with .001-60 being Minimum, and .002-10 being Maximum. Also MR. T. B., Model T, A and B, Fords do not have oil wells. They are only used in pressure bearings, and not always then. I can explain the rest if you want some time on here. George, the rods are machined on both sides. When the Babbitt in the cap starts getting thinner, it will knock off the flanges very easily, with the small pieces of Babbitt trying to get out. Mr. Vicky, 2. It appears that there is material build up on #2, so maybe the cap wasn't flush with the rod when assembled? Can't Happen. Now, Giles and I have gotten along real good, (or did), I know he is a God Fearing Man, and tells it, as he knows it. Giles, calling you about 3 times an asking if you got your engine running, you hadn't until the I think, the 3rd time when you told me that you and your boy had just got it in and were telling me you still didn't have a radiator, as you were waiting on one from some where. At that time you made me cringe when you said, you had run the motor in the car with no water, and I said oh, that's not good, and you then said, it was only for about 5 minutes, which is way to long, as any running under that condition, is to long, and NEVER should be done. Nothing else I could say, it was over and done. I might add, when you run a fresh motor with out water, all the high temps stay around the top of the cylinders, and no way to dissipate the heat evenly. If I also recall, Giles torqued the head again, and that would have made an uneven torque, hot, or cold, because the top of the block, and head were of uneven heat. Then there was a period of time when you e-Mailed me and said you had a water leak, and you pulled the head, and there was a crack in the block, and sent pictures, which I still have in my other PC, as all your e-Mails. You said you were going to try to get someone to fix it on your end. You said that you had found some one then, and that is the last I had heard from you, I think ? So, did you get it fixed? Who put on the head and torqued it? From running it with out water, did the pistons score? Was there antifreeze in the engine? Again, what kind of oil? Thanks, Herm.