Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Sea/Tac
So that diagram wants the horn to be grounded separately from the grd that comes from the horn switch and energizes the relay. That’s hard to do without a separate wire, unless your headlight bar has a good grd. Most don’t. Then, in order to bypass the original “hot” wire that goes through the amp meter and light switch ect, a new hot wire must come from the starter or battery. It seems simpler to just repair the weak connections that are causing the problem.
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Not in my particular case. I've spent several hours checking every connection in the system. Had the horn button apart, the light switch, the connectors by the rad shell (several times and changed them twice) and had the horn apart twice to check for connections and make sure that it spins freely and is properly lubed all to no avail. Horn will not work at an idle but will start to work as I rev up the engine but even at good RPM (2000ish) it works but is slow to each proper speed.
It works great when wired directly to the battery. 30 minutes to wire in a $20 relay is time and money well spent. Perhaps not for other cars but for this car it's a no brainer.