Quote:
Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU
When you drain the oil, after the oil has drained stick a finger up in tthe drain bolt hole and feel around. Ether way as said above, drain, let it sit overnight so when you take the pan off you get less drippage on you, Put in the NPT oil pump retaining bolt so the oil pump does not drop when removing the pan, remove the pan and clean. Do not use paper or cloth rags (lint is a bad thing), clean the oil pump filter screen, clean out the valve galley behind the valve cover. Clean the three small passages in the bottom rear bottom of the valve galley using pipe cleaners. Once reassembled remove the distributor and pour a quart of oil in teh hole (primes the motor), add 3 quart via the oil breather tube. Run for a very short time (minute or 2) and check/add oil as needed
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Yes, good instructions there. My first job was at a high performance marine engine building shop, tearing down and cleaning big blocks all day throughout the process. That part of it will be old hat, fortunately. No way I would introduce lint; brake clean, a wire brush assortment and scotch bright pads are the first things that come to mind. Nice to know about the pump. That would have been an unfortunate surprise. Thanks again.
I did make one error which became immediately apparent. I bought a proper 6v coil, which didn't want to start and then barely ran the engine. Duh. I have a "modern" distributor now, so as I see it there's a 6v charging/starting system and a 12v ignition system currently operating the engine. Seems to run beautifully with the 1.5 ohm 12v coil. Apparently all that would be needed to complete the conversion is a 12v generator, but I'd rather not fool with that if it isn't necessary.