[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

The only time you need thrust support, is if you use a babbitt tool like Wilsons, using a Hammer to hit the tool with. That process, is very ineffective. Ford used the babbitt hammer, but it was run by a air, or an electric tool, which was very effective.

I have seen about 5 Model T's, with the rear Main castings busted off, and welded, from the babbitt Hammer. I remember the last one, was a very low mileage 1914 Touring. The babbitt Guy, didn't get to babbitt that one, after he busted it.

There were 2 Model A's, one with a corner of the rear main busted off, and one that was cracked, half way around the rear thrust.

The reason that a babbitt hammer in ineffective, they are trying to cover to much area, at once. When hit, it has to be many small hits, not 5 big, hard ones.

We use a air hammer, with 40 pounds air pressure.

You should not do the Radius, even if you know where t stop, it is best to stop about 3/16's, to 1/4, from the radius, I mark with a Blue line, which, you will see.

Peen down the bottom center once, and when you come back, cover 1/2 the unpeened bearing, and 1/2 the peened bearing. When you have went from middle, to top, on both sides, do the thrust at about 35, to 45 degrees, away from the shaft babbitt, on both sides.

Just remember your only moving the babbitt up to the the cast block surface, not through it.

The cast iron cap, we put in a large vice. The rear thrust gets a round disk, just so it misses the slinger area, and should stick out of the cap about, 1/4 inch. A vice Jaw pushes against it. The front thrust on the cap, has the Jaw push against it. clamp the cap tight, and peen the shaft babbitt tight.

Then, pull the cap, and clamp the cap , rear down, and peen the babbitt thrust on the front of the cap. we then put the cap in the vice, with no round slug, and peen the rear thrust.

Thanks.

Herm.