Quote:
Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo
Why are you removing the perches??
Paul in CT
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I've done a front end both ways. It usually depends on if the bushing for the shackle is worn through into the spring perch.
If worn through even this can be remedied by a good grinder, welder and copper heat sink. You grind out a "slot" eliminating 3/4 of the worn through part, then using the copper chill you build up again using a TIG or MIG. It's not a big deal and not that hard, the biggest challenge removing the chill after the welding/shaping is done with a burr. Some use a 3/8" brass pipe with a slot cut out of it. (You're only looking to back up a third of the diameter.)
Sometimes the balls for the shock absorbers have been cut off - even these can be replaced by welding.
And sometimes you just want to start over for "nice." I had one I replaced where the dog-bone shock absorber link had worn into and ruined the little "pad" which prevents the shock shackle from "tilting" and makes a better seal on the original shackle.
If you remove the spring perch, you probably want to at least check the axle beam "straightness" using KRW type rod indicators. If the holes all line up and the 7 degree angle of the kingpins is maintained, you're probably good to go.
Model T axle below, but the tools and the principle are the same.
Joe K