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Old 05-22-2022, 05:33 PM   #12
SonicRaT
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Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 44
Default Re: Hello from Upstate NY with my 1930 Model A

Gotcha. It sounds like something is not quite right on both sides of the coil.

The negative coil terminal should have a short, black wire that connects to the terminal block, typically on the drivers side. On this same terminal post, should be a yellow/black wire coming from the ammeter and another yellow/black that runs down to the generator cut-out. The other terminal (on the passenger side), will have two yellow wires -- one coming from the safety fuse and the other going to the ammeter.

With this configuration, you should see a solid 6V between the negative terminal and ground on the car at all times -- it should stay consistent and not fluctuate.

The ignition switch you have should be a simple switch, so it shouldn't ground or interfere with the terminals in any way other than switching them together. You should have one terminal of the switch directly to the positive coil terminal, and it should be the only wire the coil. The black lead coming from the security cable conduit should run to the other side of that switch.

When all is working well, you should have continuity from that positive coil terminal, through the red wire, to the ignition switch. With the ignition switch "ON", continuity should travel through the black conduit cable, to the distributor lower plate where the brass plunger presses against the lower plate terminal. Continuity should then travel from that lower plate through the lower plate wire to the upper plate point terminal. The points then complete the circuit to ground when they close and make contact with the stationary portion of the points, which are grounded to the upper plate, that grounds through the distributor body to the engine.

If you want quicker help, you can PM me and I can provide my email/phone if you need some faster assistance.
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