Quote:
Originally Posted by restomod
1a. With the key in the off position and the neg lead on the neg coil post, red to ground I am getting voltage. What should it be or as long as there is any it's ok?
2a. Set to continuity, with the key on and with the red lead on the pos side of the coil/red wire and the black lead on the end of the ignition switch (pulled it out the bottom of the distro) I get continuity, all 0's.
3a. Confusing to me however is that with the ignition switch black wire separated from the base of the distro completely, I get continuity from the + side of the coil to the base plate, upper plate, and anything I touch in the distro? This confuses me as there is nothing going to the distro, it's just there by itself with the points open?
1b. I tested the fuse for continuity and it's fine, passing continuity with all 0's on the meter.
2b. I pulled it all the way out but haven't put it back in until I can figure out 3a, which doesn't make sense to me.
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I'm sorry, I should have verified what type of ignition switch and wire you were using, is it an original pop-out switch ignition or a replacement switch? Is the wire you are using an original, shielded conduit cable that inserts into both the distributor and the switch, or one of the modern style shielded cables that has a black wire coming out of the end that you wire to the ignition switch terminal? For some reason I was reading your post as if you had just a regular wire between the a modern ignition switch and the distributor.
Responding directly to your numbered points:
1a: You should see around 6v between chassis ground and the negative terminal of the coil at all times.
3a: This does sound odd. The path to "ground" (positive) in this case, should come through the distributor, through the wire to the ignition switch, and then to the coil. If it is an original style pop-out switch, the switch will "ground" the conduit wire at all times in the off-position, with the red wire disconnected from the circuit. However, you should not be seeing continuity from that red wire/positive side of the coil to any ground with the black wire removed. Does it change if the ignition switch is on/off? If that wire is seeing continuity to ground despite the rest of the circuit, that explains your lack of spark, as the points are generally what should "interrupt" the circuits path to ground and allow the coil to fire. In this case though, it seems to be picking up a ground signal from somewhere else... I would start by double checking that the negative coil lead goes to the terminal block, positive lead goes through the coil block to the ignition switch terminal, and the other ignition switch terminal (or, if original, the slot where it inserts in), goes to the distributor cable. Make sure there are no shorts or areas where it may be making contact with the body. If it is an original pop-out switch, it may be faulty and grounding that red wire by itself through the body of the switch.
Below is what I refer to as the "modern" type of cable.
