Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Is the vehicle still 6V, positive ground? Where exactly do you have the ignition switch wired into the distributor? It should either be wired to the brass tongue as you called it on the base plate with the wire coming from the base plate going to the terminal on the points or it can be wired directly to the points terminal on the upper plate.
I would verify that your ignition wiring is not shorting in the distributor anywhere and is in one of the correct locations.
After that, check the negative side of the coil by connecting the negative lead of your volt meter to the negative terminal of the coil, positive lead to a ground and confirming voltage is present.
From this point on, switch your volt meter to continuity and move one lead to the positive coil terminal. Then use the other meter lead to check that you have continuity to the wire coming off of the ignition switch where it connects to the distributor, wether that is the base plate "tongue" or the points terminal on the upper plate. If that looks OK, then I would check continuity at the points themselves.
At the points, if they are closed, you should be able to follow continuity all the way to the ground of the plate and the vehicle. If you get it reading continuity this far, leave the meter setup and then manually open the points with something non-conductive and you should see a break in continuity. If you see this break, then that confirms all of the wiring is correct and from there all you would need to do is set the appropriate points gap.
The safety fuse installs in-line on the yellow wire that goes from the passenger side of the terminal block to the starter post. You can verify this is correct and working by checking with a voltmeter that you have 6V when connecting to the passenger side of the terminal block with the negative lead of a volt meter and connecting the positive side to a chassis ground.
For your horn and headlights, those are fed by a yellow/black wire that begins at the drivers side of the terminal block, which then runs along the drivers side of the engine, over the coolant outlet and oil filler/breather tube and finally to the generator cut-out. At the cut-out, it should be bolted to a terminal along with two other wires -- those two other wires run to the horn and the headlight switch.
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Thanks for your reply. Correct on still 6v positive ground. My wiring is exactly like the wiring diagram I have that I got from Snyder's now. Red wire from the ignition switch direct to the + side of the coil, black wire direct to the base of the distro with the black wire with metal shielding. It is screwed in and should be touching the metal tab inside the distro on the bottom plate. The bottom plate is the brass style (no wire) and the top plate is modern points/condenser with the brass arm that goes down to touch the bottom plate.
1a. I will try your first step of checking the negative side of the coil, since I am not quite getting the flow of this, does it matter if the ignition key is off or on? Or either way it doesn't matter? Also points closed or open, or doesn't matter?
2a. Will do here as well, again my question is key on/off, or doesn't matter? Also points position or doesn't matter? I think you can tell here with these questions that I am not quite getting how a circuit works if these are dumb questions but I am trying.
3a. Will test this as well for continuity all the way with the points closed. Can you tell me where specifically here the two leads should be from the meter?
4a. Straight forward on testing the inline fuse, will let you know here as well
5a. I have never traced the horn/lights that far and will double check that, as well as the conneciton in the terminal box
Quote:
Originally Posted by katy
That's a stretch.
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Not sure what you mean? He started it periodically in the winter only for a few minutes. This time with a full tank of gas he started it and walked away, it ran until it ran out of gas literally. There were blankets over the hood as well which did not help, the heat generate melted a few things and is what started me on this journey
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1930artdeco
Welcome and I will add my 2 cents worth of electrical knowledge.
1) check the fuse very very carefully. I have seen them blow at the ends and not in the middle where can see the break. It is very rare but can happen and it did to a club members car, swapped fuse and he had lights, horn and a running engine.
2) make sure that you don’t thread the armored cable in too tight as it will push the lower plate out of alignment and it will ground out the ignition system.
3) check you your points/cam/upper distributor plate for any side to side play. Mine would only fire on 1/3 until I changed out the worn points.
Mike
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Thanks for the welcome!
1b. I checked the fuse for the middle but will def check the ends now. I will also try a replacement as well if I have one. Will also check with the meter as Sonic suggested and report back.
2b. This is a def possibility of being either in too far and grounding, or not being far enough. I am guessing if it is not far enough the testing above with the meter to the base plate would show that. If in too far I will try backing it out a turn as well.
3b. I can verify that there is no side to side play that I can see and they are brand new points gapped to .20 on all 4 lobes of the cam.