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Daves55Sedan · 07-12-2020, 05:53 PM

I suggest removing the plugs immediately. If you look closely at the top you should see text that identifies which port goes to intake manifold brass fitting and the other one goes directly back to wipers (via rubber hose thru the firewall). For best results, use metal tubing on vacuum lines as much as possible.
No this has nothing to do with vapor lock.
If you truly are experiencing vapor lock, you need to add a 1/4" or more thick phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold. It will be necessary to get another carb mounting gasket also. That will most likely end your vapor lock problem.
It's possible you are being fooled by the apparent symptoms though.
If you are using the original style Holley 2100 2-bbl or Ford EBU 2-bbl carb, they can have fuel related problems whose symptoms mimic vapor lock.
These types of carbs as well as the older 8BA carbs for flathead Fords can leak gas down the intake manifold and flood out the cylinders. The usual suspects are busted power valve diaphragm or power valve gasket that is not properly seated. Both problems are due to POOR QUALITY components in gasket sets usually, but sometimes the bottom of your main body is scored at the power valve mounting surface (which would need to be carefully milled down flat).
Another thing that can happen with these is that if your ball check recess in the bottom of the accelerator pump chamber gets dirty or clogged with ethanol deposits, you will have the same problem because gas will leak out thru there.
I am still using the original EBU carb and load-o-matic distributor. It is a good system if you can get good carb gasket materials and decent ignition condensers and points.
Lately, I have been getting my gaskets from Dicks Hot Rod carbs. I think he is in Texas.
I was using Mikes Carb Parts, but they have discontinued the kits for these types of carbs (or run out of stock).
While you're at it, double check your float setting against the last kit instructions you used. If you don't want to mess with your carb, you can always send it to Sal Cicala who also frequents this forum. He will fix it right for you.

07-12-2020, 05:53 PM	#2
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: Fuel pump / vaporlock I suggest removing the plugs immediately. If you look closely at the top you should see text that identifies which port goes to intake manifold brass fitting and the other one goes directly back to wipers (via rubber hose thru the firewall). For best results, use metal tubing on vacuum lines as much as possible. No this has nothing to do with vapor lock. If you truly are experiencing vapor lock, you need to add a 1/4" or more thick phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold. It will be necessary to get another carb mounting gasket also. That will most likely end your vapor lock problem. It's possible you are being fooled by the apparent symptoms though. If you are using the original style Holley 2100 2-bbl or Ford EBU 2-bbl carb, they can have fuel related problems whose symptoms mimic vapor lock. These types of carbs as well as the older 8BA carbs for flathead Fords can leak gas down the intake manifold and flood out the cylinders. The usual suspects are busted power valve diaphragm or power valve gasket that is not properly seated. Both problems are due to POOR QUALITY components in gasket sets usually, but sometimes the bottom of your main body is scored at the power valve mounting surface (which would need to be carefully milled down flat). Another thing that can happen with these is that if your ball check recess in the bottom of the accelerator pump chamber gets dirty or clogged with ethanol deposits, you will have the same problem because gas will leak out thru there. I am still using the original EBU carb and load-o-matic distributor. It is a good system if you can get good carb gasket materials and decent ignition condensers and points. Lately, I have been getting my gaskets from Dicks Hot Rod carbs. I think he is in Texas. I was using Mikes Carb Parts, but they have discontinued the kits for these types of carbs (or run out of stock). While you're at it, double check your float setting against the last kit instructions you used. If you don't want to mess with your carb, you can always send it to Sal Cicala who also frequents this forum. He will fix it right for you.