[Marco Tahtaras]

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Originally Posted by RonC

From the service bulletins:

"......pull the brake pedal all the way back until it is against its stop - then adjust the rod until there is about 1/16” clearance between end of rod and rear flange of center cross member (leaving a little clearance between end of rod and cross member prevents any possibility of the end of the rod rubbing against the cross member and causing a squeak).

After adjusting the brake pedal to cross rod, assemble side pull rods to brake operating and cross shaft end levers. When assembling the side pull rods, pull the brake operating levers on the front axle back and the brake operating levers on the rear axle forward (taking up all idle movement). Then with the levers in this position adjust the side pull rods so they can be assembled to brake operating and cross shaft end levers.

Next adjust brakes by turning up the adjusting wedges as described on page 202 of the January, 1928, Bulletin. After the brake rods have been correctly adjusted car owners should be notified that this adjustment must not be altered. Service brake adjustments must be made only by means of the adjusting wedge at each brake."

Good post Ron. I don't have the patience to transcribe all the good stuff in the Bulletins!

I've pretty much stayed silent on the adjustment issue because very few folks ever get the shoes centered and sized correctly which leaves them in a position having to compensate elsewhere.

The "Adjusting Model A Brakes" video link that was posted a couple days ago reminded me of all these tricks folks devise to compensate for problems at the wheels. The truth is, when the brakes are TRULY proper at the wheels then all you need to do is adjust each adjuster for it's wheel to spin free about 80% of it's rotation, adjust the rods as you quoted, and it's a done deal except POSSIBLY turning one or two of the adjusters about one click.

If you need to use something like the brake pedal stick/gauge then you have at least moderate problems at the wheels.