[Mister Moose]

Lots of different routes to go here. I think you need to start off realizing that 95% of painting is prep, prep takes time, how good a job do you want given each 10% improvement in the finish quality takes 30%+ more time.

Low end: wire brush what you can reach and hand brush primer and finish coat, minimal masking if brushed.
Middle end: remove easy components to improve access, better rotary power tools, mask and paint
High end: remove starter, manifolds, water pump, radiator, distributor, carb, etc. carefully mask all non painted surfaces, body panels and engine openings. Use a small sandblaster with a fine media carefully. Be meticulous on keeping media out of engine seals, intakes, water jackets, pump impellers, etc. Spray primer and correct green and black finish coats on block and parts. Reassemble.

You can go with an authentic Ford Engine Green custom mixed or in a pint can from the usual vendors, or whatever is closest in a spray can.

Realize that when you take stuff apart you are going to find stuff to fix, rebuild or replace.

I haven't found rust dissolvers to be that great a prep, they are acidic, uneven results, and messy. The only place I use them is flat ground cast iron surfaces on woodworking power tools. Your engine's convoluted surface isn't friendly to hand scrubbing. Any collection of crevices you miss are going to be breeding grounds for paint failure later on. However, this isn't rocket science or brain surgery. Get it shiny, get it clean*, paint it, move on.


*Clean meaning solvent wiped. Even when shiny, metal will have grease and oil residue that will produce "orange peel" in your painted surface. After all that prep, you don't want failed paint. Many choices, talk to an auto body painter for high end, otherwise just wipe it with a good solvent. I like Zylol, it's slower drying and less noxious than lacquer thinner. Be extremely wary of turpentine or imitation mineral spirits. If you go the mineral spirits route, pay the extra for the real deal.