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V8COOPMAN · 05-06-2021, 03:07 PM

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No matter WHO ends-up doing the shortening....one of the most-difficult parts of shortening a t-tube or d-shaft is PRECISELY determining how much to remove (from each), as well as WHERE to remove it from.

Probably the most-important dimension to consider is going to be the distance between the center of the speedometer gear at front of drive shaft....and the center of the lock-pin hole on the splined pinion shaft, once your transmission and rear end are mocked in permanent place. That speedo gear should NEVER change it's relative position (fore or aft) with any measurable point on the transmission.

The only way I know of to get an accurate measurement for the torque tube is to first bolt-up the t-tube's bell and clam shell assembly at the transmission. With the front of t-tube steadied at transmission, place the rear of t-tube directly next to the flat face on the front of the banjo housing that the t-tube bolts to. Make a mark on the UN-CUT torque tube. Now, the t-tube must be shortened by a measurement that will ultimately fix the REAR FACE of the 6-bolt t-tube flange at the mark you just made on the UN-CUT t-tube. NEVER assume that whatever dimension that you shorten the shaft, will be the same dimension that you NEED to shorten the t-tube.....or vis-a-versa!

Always shorten the torque tube at REAR. And the same pretty-much goes for the drive shafts, too, especially when shortening the early, tapered, tubular shafts. And it makes no good sense (at least to me) to shorten either a tube OR shaft in the middle.

And just one more little tid-bit for anyone fooling with a '33 or '34 d-shaft or t-tube. V8 tubes and shafts are a different length than 4-cylinder tubes and shafts. The difference is about 1-1/2". DD

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05-06-2021, 03:07 PM	#11
V8COOPMAN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON Posts: 11,115	Re: Torque tube shortening recommendations . No matter WHO ends-up doing the shortening....one of the most-difficult parts of shortening a t-tube or d-shaft is PRECISELY determining how much to remove (from each), as well as WHERE to remove it from. Probably the most-important dimension to consider is going to be the distance between the center of the speedometer gear at front of drive shaft....and the center of the lock-pin hole on the splined pinion shaft, once your transmission and rear end are mocked in permanent place. That speedo gear should NEVER change it's relative position (fore or aft) with any measurable point on the transmission. The only way I know of to get an accurate measurement for the torque tube is to first bolt-up the t-tube's bell and clam shell assembly at the transmission. With the front of t-tube steadied at transmission, place the rear of t-tube directly next to the flat face on the front of the banjo housing that the t-tube bolts to. Make a mark on the UN-CUT torque tube. Now, the t-tube must be shortened by a measurement that will ultimately fix the REAR FACE of the 6-bolt t-tube flange at the mark you just made on the UN-CUT t-tube. NEVER assume that whatever dimension that you shorten the shaft, will be the same dimension that you NEED to shorten the t-tube.....or vis-a-versa! Always shorten the torque tube at REAR. And the same pretty-much goes for the drive shafts, too, especially when shortening the early, tapered, tubular shafts. And it makes no good sense (at least to me) to shorten either a tube OR shaft in the middle. And just one more little tid-bit for anyone fooling with a '33 or '34 d-shaft or t-tube. V8 tubes and shafts are a different length than 4-cylinder tubes and shafts. The difference is about 1-1/2". DD ....... __________________ *Click Links Below* __ ▼ *'35-'36 W/8BA & MECHANICAL FAN* *T5 W/TORQUE TUBE* Last edited by V8COOPMAN; 05-06-2021 at 03:12 PM.