View Single Post
Old 07-12-2022, 06:34 PM   #105
KiWinUS
Senior Member
 
KiWinUS's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 2,972
Default Re: Engine temp rises when I get to cruise speed

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Brassworks View Post
I always recommend the largest core that fits. I always advocate pullers over pushers. There is no compelling reason anyone would elect for a thinner core except (1) the incremental cost e.g. $100 or (2) insufficient space. The fact that a pusher fan was used suggests we were told there was insufficient space. I did not measure the space. It was not my recommendation to build a thinner radiator; “expert” or otherwise.

I did check my emails prior to your build
> On Jun 16, 2021, at 4:36 AM, Joe V <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> 
> I've had no problems with the flex a lite, but I remember you saying the Spal was the way to go.
> It's a model 396 S-blade 2500 cfm (if that cfm is true). If you think the Spal will perform better, I'll go with
> that, but it needs to be a push type.
> I don't have room for a fan to pull. I also already have the relay etc. so I won't need that.
> Thanks for your time
> Joe


At highway speeds 205 deg. “its okay but you're not happy”, you exit the highway and drive 30-40mph at 190 deg. but going back to 45mph you “start to heat up again.” It's not quite the data set I'd like to see but I have suggested you try two offset fans (without a shroud) to see if the additional 1,959 cfm helps below 40mph and free air flow from removal of that shroud reduces your situational overheating above 40mph. Fans matter at ~40mph and lower. You are telling me you will definitely not do this.

You removed a SPAL pusher and put a cooling components puller fan in. We recommend SPAL fans because we believe their products are superior to all others on the market. I would not have mounted the puller fan and shroud but since you spent considerable money, I suggest you remove the shroud and you may derive benefit from it. Its four bolts.

I am not advocating the removal of fans. I am also not supportive of your coolant changes.

There are plenty of good suggestions on this forum but as my particular suggestions do not seem of value to you I am at a loss.
Lee. I have 40 plus years in the top of professional racing. I have worked with multiple engineers from Ford Motor Company to the exclusive builders of radiator’s for F1 and NASCAR. Again I may be wrong but I don’t believe so. This radiator is not up to standard. I have as a hobby built Ford flathead engines since I were 14. That’s 48 years From stock to hot rod. Not race flatheads like Ronnie Roadster ( a legend that knows his stuff).
Let’s stop the bs and either supply a radiator that will cool correctly or tell Joe you will not help him. I have read every comment on here. If straight water won’t cool you have a problem. If you need fans at cruise speed you have a problem. There are hundreds of blown flattys similar to Joe’s that run cool we all know HP = BTUs but even blown these engines in street form do no make excess BTUs. Let’s correct the root cause and get on with our fun lives. Thanks.
Cheers
Tony.
KiWinUS is offline   Reply With Quote