Quote:
Originally Posted by larrys40
I grade and evaluate the axles by the critical areas 1st, threads, keyway, taper, gear end, and lastly the seal area. If the seal area on the axle is worn it's really not that big a deal. I would not use an axle just because that is the problem if all other areas ( threads/Keyway,taper,gear) are good. As some have said you can add a spacer before the seal is driven in, use a speedy sleeve, or dress it down. I would not turn down the axle in any way on a lathe to reduce the dimension. In general terms you are not going to leak lube into your brakes..... I've torn down and rebuilt many rear axles (over 150) and really can't say that I've had any one of them oily because of that seal alone.
Pick the best original axle you can taking all the other critical areas into account, key fit, hub fit, threads, gear end.. .and if there's a little wear on it at the seal you can use one of the repairs and also know that with a new neoprene seal it will be OK
Larry Shepard
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It is my understanding that the seal is a grease seal, not an oil seal. It's purpose is to prevent grease that is pumped in through the grease fitting from traveling down the axle shaft toward the differential.
The design thought is that when grease is pumped in through the grease fitting the seal forces the grease to travel outboard toward the wheel bearing. The large grease seal in the brake drum act as the other end of the trap and forces the grease into the bearing.
This was not one of Henry's better ideas, and a few years after the Model A the grease fitting was discontinued in favor of hand packing the bearing before installation.
I have taken a good many rear axle assemblies apart and found the original CR seal wasted away and with no sign of differential oil in the brakes. In many cases the owner continued to pump grease in through the fitting and the grease then centrifuged around the axle shaft. The more that was pumped in the larger the diameter and the further toward the differential. In many case I found the center section of the axle rusted and devoid of either grease or oil.
If the proper level of oil is maintained in the banjo no oil with reach the seal.
I completely disregard any wear in the axle caused by the seal. The important thing to look for is any cracks at the key slot or damaged threads. The gear end is usually in good shape unless it sat in water and is completely ruined by rust.
Tom Endy