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mrlaser · 06-01-2020, 10:00 AM

As a f/u to my previous posts and my current status I am posting this summary:

I am asking for advice on the continuing problem I am having with my Borg Warner r10 OD. The transmission was professionally rebuilt several years ago ( but not put in service at that time) . The rest of the car's frame off restoration has now been completed. When driven, the transmission functions normally when the OD cable is pulled out. When the cable is pushed in, the transmission free wheels as expected. When approximately 30 mph is reached and the accelerator lifted, the OD does not engage and freewheeling continues. The wiring harness is new and the solenoid,governor, and relay were all NOS at the time of the rebuild. I have since replaced the relay and solenoid with new ones from Vintage Auto Garage. I also replaced the original governor with another NOS part. I have Randy Rundle's book and have tried testing the system as he described. In spite of these changes, I still cannot get the OD to engage. As a test, I have installed a toggle switch wired directly from the battery to the switch and then to the #4 terminal on the solenoid to bypass the other electrical components and wiring. When tested in the garage there is a click at the solenoid. When the switch is turned to the "on" position at 30 mph while driving and the accelerator pedal is monetarily lifted, the result is the same, with continued freewheeling. A few other details: the car is 6 volt positive ground and otherwise stock. Unfortunately the original transmission (elderly) re builder has since passed away. Also, when installing the second solenoid , I did turn the unit clockwise, while powered "on" to extend the shaft, then rotated it counterclockwise when it was in place to align the bolt holes. When the power was cut to the solenoid, it was drawn flush with the case. I should also mention that the transmission was originally briefly filled with synthetic GL-4 fluid and subsequently changed to GL-1 mineral oil based lubricant. I am now wondering what other testing might be helpful and have concerns that the problem could be an internal mechanical one. The transmission otherwise functions nominally. Very frustrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

06-01-2020, 10:00 AM	#27
mrlaser Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Savannah, Ga Posts: 225	Re: 1951 Ford overdrive As a f/u to my previous posts and my current status I am posting this summary: I am asking for advice on the continuing problem I am having with my Borg Warner r10 OD. The transmission was professionally rebuilt several years ago ( but not put in service at that time) . The rest of the car's frame off restoration has now been completed. When driven, the transmission functions normally when the OD cable is pulled out. When the cable is pushed in, the transmission free wheels as expected. When approximately 30 mph is reached and the accelerator lifted, the OD does not engage and freewheeling continues. The wiring harness is new and the solenoid,governor, and relay were all NOS at the time of the rebuild. I have since replaced the relay and solenoid with new ones from Vintage Auto Garage. I also replaced the original governor with another NOS part. I have Randy Rundle's book and have tried testing the system as he described. In spite of these changes, I still cannot get the OD to engage. As a test, I have installed a toggle switch wired directly from the battery to the switch and then to the #4 terminal on the solenoid to bypass the other electrical components and wiring. When tested in the garage there is a click at the solenoid. When the switch is turned to the "on" position at 30 mph while driving and the accelerator pedal is monetarily lifted, the result is the same, with continued freewheeling. A few other details: the car is 6 volt positive ground and otherwise stock. Unfortunately the original transmission (elderly) re builder has since passed away. Also, when installing the second solenoid , I did turn the unit clockwise, while powered "on" to extend the shaft, then rotated it counterclockwise when it was in place to align the bolt holes. When the power was cut to the solenoid, it was drawn flush with the case. I should also mention that the transmission was originally briefly filled with synthetic GL-4 fluid and subsequently changed to GL-1 mineral oil based lubricant. I am now wondering what other testing might be helpful and have concerns that the problem could be an internal mechanical one. The transmission otherwise functions nominally. Very frustrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.