Re: Fuse blowing
Fuse vs Circuit Breaker
As I read this thread about all the fuses that blow, what is the prevailing theory on using an automotive DC 30 amp current breaker?
Pulling fuses every night has been cautioned to weaken the clasps holding the fuse in place. Exposed terminals are easy locations to inadvertently short a wrench. And, a breaker with a manual trip could serve as a cut-off switch.
Grainger's Automotive-Circuit-Breaker-30PD07
or Amazon's RedWolf 30amp DC Circuit Breaker
Traditionalists would favor fuses, but Henry did not see fit to install one. So tradition portends no electrical protection and the modern breaker is similar to the modern fuse block of the 1950's.
Also, why not isolate the starter. I recognize that a starter short is exceedingly unlikely and it can pull a heavy initial amp load so a fuse fuse/breaker would trip every start, but if you are going to isolate the electrical for safety, then isolate. Some posters advocate a two fuse setup, i am not sure of the wiring schematic for this arrangement though.
Bottom line, to a new Model A'er, (as I have read all the threads) is ....
1) Protect the vehicle from the numerous possible shorts
2) Install an electrical cutoff switch for safety and security
3) Possibly use two safety devices, one at starter and one at alternator/generator
A) Tie a zip tie to fuse to make it less hard to remove
B) Do not remove fuse too often to weaken prongs
C) Carry extra fuses
D) Do not accidently touch exposed prongs with a wrench
E) If you are going to use a .22 gun cartridge, make sure it has been fired first
It seems to me a breaker like I attached from some of the others that have posted seems to check all the boxes and avoid all the pitfalls.
Why not use a waterproof automotive DC 30 amp breaker instead of a fuse?
Diastole
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