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Old 01-23-2014, 05:36 PM   #16
Walt Dupont--Me.
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gardiner Me.
Posts: 4,200
Default Re: some advice for adjusting valves

My 2-1/2 cents worth. We'll start with the drill holes. I drill a 5/32 hole, drill the hole close to the bottom, at least 3/4in. or more down. If you drill to high the pin won't go in the lifter slot on low cam. NOW, you can't drill the holes with the crank in. You'll never get all the grindings out of the engine. After drilling the holes I use one of those one inch dingle ball hones that you hone out wheel cyl. with. and run it up and down lifter bore to get that burr off where you drilled the hole. Then bring the block back to the machine shop and put it in the jet washer for 15min. Wash it out with the water hose, Now you ready the assemble the engine. After saying all that, I HATE ARJUSTABLE LIFTERS. I butt grind about all my engines. WHY? Because most of todays lifters are junk in my mind. If they say ( Like Johnson lifters on the box, there not the old Johnson lifters.) The lifter screw usually turn so hard no way you can do it in the engine. Or there to loose. The only way to turn them is clamp head of the screw in a vise and stick screw driver through the lifter and turn it. One turn is about .040 when you get the lifter so you can get a feeler gauge in then you can tell how many .000 you have to shorten or lengthen the lifter. Remove the lifter, mic. it with a caliper rule then shorten or lengthen it what you need. After doing a few you get the feel it and it won't take long to do them all, 2-4 day LOL. I took a 1/4in. rod about a foot long and drilled a 5/32 hole in the end in a lathe so you get center, stuck a 5/23 drill in the hole and brassed it in. Easier to drill the holes. Or you can put in a ch---y engine. OOOOH cukker, I shouldn't of said that. I didn't mean it, really. Walt
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