Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard/Ca
My rear main cap is crack right down the middle but all my other caps have I would say almost perfect babbitt on them. They look like they have very little wear on them so what should I do have them all done again. Sorry I am not trying to be a smart (a  ) but I don't no what to do.  Richard/Ca |
Well as George said, there is no way to get a cap as close as when it was when it was original align bored, I couldn't even align bore a Model A, and take it out of the align bore, put it back in and get a o alignment again, close, but no Cigar, you would be off, 1/2 to .001, at best, and thats a mile. There are about three things that can bust up your rear cap. First, it MAY have been set up with to much clearance. Second, It is not uncommon to see redo's come through here with .030 thousandst end play, that will break it up. In my opinion, the worst thing is not peening, block, or cast rear cap right. After poured, they will shrink form .002 to as much as .010, away from the block. You have to peen while it is just under the molten stage, the colder its gets, you will fracture the babbitt. I have looked at many videos, and pictures of guys doing Model A, and T babbitting, and most of bearings show no signs of any, or feeble attempt to peen. If you peen badly, or not at all, what happens is the crank shaft peens the bearing for you, and at that temp., it will break up, and why you have all the excess clearance. The reason that the front, and center stayed, is they must have some of the surface tinned. I have said it before, and I will say it again, K.R.Wilson babbitt hammers cover to much area, to peen good, look at some of my peening on the 35 ford in the albums. It is a tight over lap pattern,and it also makes a non compressing babbitt. Richard, the only thing you can do to protect your self from bad bearings is to choose wisely. thanks Herm.