The Ford Barn - View Single Post - The Terry Burtz 5 main bearing engine blocks are back on track.

Terry Burtz, Calif · 06-21-2020, 02:15 PM

Terry this may be a stupid question, but will the new engine HAVE to run a filter?

I know it is better for the engine but I never liked the looks of a filter on a Model A. I don't mind just draining the oil every 500 miles not a big deal.

Thanks, Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for your question. There are no stupid questions.

The answer is NO, a filter is not required and this will keep the exterior looking like the original. This no filter configuration is what we are planning to use for longevity and hill climb testing.

After the above testing is complete, we plan to reconfigure the engine to use an external oil filter and do additional testing on the run-in stand.

When using an external oil filter, a threaded dowel pin (McMaster Carr pull-out dowel pin #97355A401) needs to be installed in one of the internal oil passages. Oil will now exit the cylinder block where the 1/8 NPT plug is on the side of the cylinder block. The oil will flow to an external filter, and from the filter to the lower bolt of the timing gear inspection cover which needs to be drilled and tapped 1/8 NPT.
From the drilled bolt, internal passages connect to the main oil galley that runs full length of the cylinder block.

Whether you choose to use an oil filter or not, a higher volume oil pump is recommended. For testing, we will be using modified Model A oil pumps where the intake window is enlarged, the shaft has a reduced diameter between bushings and the exit holes are enlarged. In addition, an oil pump modified for an external oil filter needs the 2 upper slots filled to force all of the oil out at the 1/8 NPT plug fitting.

I know that production is close but any thoughts about drilling the back of the crank for two more flywheel mounting bolts? Or would it be possible to drill them later. Thanks, Richard
P.S. I can hardly wait to get one or two of you new engines!

Richard,
The new engine parts will have all original interfaces including the 2 dowel pins in the crankshaft flange.
Once received by buyers, the buyer is free to make modifications.
In mechanical design, dowel pins are used for precise location and to take shear loads.
I question the reason for wanting bolts instead of dowel pins. Dowel pins are stronger than bolts in shear and their precise diameter won't allow radial movement. Think about letting the 4 bolts do retention and let the 2 dowel pins take care of location and shear.

I don't recall hearing anything about the cam. Will we be on our own shopping for a cam, or will a stock A cam work with the 5 webs in the block? Russ

Russ,
You will get to choose the camshaft along with all the other parts. A 3 bearing camshaft will work. All 5 camshaft bushings in the new cylinder block have passages connected to the main oil galley. Bushings 1, 3, and 5 have holes that expose the oil passages. Camshaft bushings 2 and 4 have bushings that block the oil passages. If a 5 bearing camshaft is used, holes must be drilled in bushings 2 and 4 to connect with the oil passages.

Terry,
You are correct in the observation of the block needing more support. Sorry, I cannot show the other side of this motor and any internals, you understand.
The parts look great, keep up the work, John

John,
Thanks for the reply. I understand and could say with almost certainly what you are doing to get that horsepower and keeping a stock cylinder block intact. I won't comment.

Will the new block have main studs instead of bolts and nuts? DB

DB,
All 5 main bearing caps will be retained with studs and nuts.
Connecting rods will utilize bolts for retention.
All main and connecting rod caps will have 2 dowel pins each for location.
All hardware is UNF and UNC and 170KSI yield which is stronger than Grade 8.

06-21-2020, 02:15 PM	#123
Terry Burtz, Calif Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Campbell,CA, USA Posts: 319	Re: The Terry Burtz 5 main bearing engine blocks are back on track. Terry this may be a stupid question, but will the new engine HAVE to run a filter? I know it is better for the engine but I never liked the looks of a filter on a Model A. I don't mind just draining the oil every 500 miles not a big deal. Thanks, Jeff Jeff, Thanks for your question. There are no stupid questions. The answer is NO, a filter is not required and this will keep the exterior looking like the original. This no filter configuration is what we are planning to use for longevity and hill climb testing. After the above testing is complete, we plan to reconfigure the engine to use an external oil filter and do additional testing on the run-in stand. When using an external oil filter, a threaded dowel pin (McMaster Carr pull-out dowel pin #97355A401) needs to be installed in one of the internal oil passages. Oil will now exit the cylinder block where the 1/8 NPT plug is on the side of the cylinder block. The oil will flow to an external filter, and from the filter to the lower bolt of the timing gear inspection cover which needs to be drilled and tapped 1/8 NPT. From the drilled bolt, internal passages connect to the main oil galley that runs full length of the cylinder block. Whether you choose to use an oil filter or not, a higher volume oil pump is recommended. For testing, we will be using modified Model A oil pumps where the intake window is enlarged, the shaft has a reduced diameter between bushings and the exit holes are enlarged. In addition, an oil pump modified for an external oil filter needs the 2 upper slots filled to force all of the oil out at the 1/8 NPT plug fitting. I know that production is close but any thoughts about drilling the back of the crank for two more flywheel mounting bolts? Or would it be possible to drill them later. Thanks, Richard P.S. I can hardly wait to get one or two of you new engines! Richard, The new engine parts will have all original interfaces including the 2 dowel pins in the crankshaft flange. Once received by buyers, the buyer is free to make modifications. In mechanical design, dowel pins are used for precise location and to take shear loads. I question the reason for wanting bolts instead of dowel pins. Dowel pins are stronger than bolts in shear and their precise diameter won't allow radial movement. Think about letting the 4 bolts do retention and let the 2 dowel pins take care of location and shear. I don't recall hearing anything about the cam. Will we be on our own shopping for a cam, or will a stock A cam work with the 5 webs in the block? Russ Russ, You will get to choose the camshaft along with all the other parts. A 3 bearing camshaft will work. All 5 camshaft bushings in the new cylinder block have passages connected to the main oil galley. Bushings 1, 3, and 5 have holes that expose the oil passages. Camshaft bushings 2 and 4 have bushings that block the oil passages. If a 5 bearing camshaft is used, holes must be drilled in bushings 2 and 4 to connect with the oil passages. Terry, You are correct in the observation of the block needing more support. Sorry, I cannot show the other side of this motor and any internals, you understand. The parts look great, keep up the work, John John, Thanks for the reply. I understand and could say with almost certainly what you are doing to get that horsepower and keeping a stock cylinder block intact. I won't comment. Will the new block have main studs instead of bolts and nuts? DB DB, All 5 main bearing caps will be retained with studs and nuts. Connecting rods will utilize bolts for retention. All main and connecting rod caps will have 2 dowel pins each for location. All hardware is UNF and UNC and 170KSI yield which is stronger than Grade 8.