Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg
2 points to make:
1. You say you have the can type regulator. Are you calling the stock cutout a regulator, or do you know for a fact that you have a can type regulator made by John Regan?
2. You don't need to have the wire connected to excite the generator. The residual magnetism is what excites the generator and running it without being connected to the battery can make it put out up to 40 volts and it will fry itself if run for very long this way. I only run it this way for a few seconds to show people how many volts it can put out when disconnected from the battery.
Sometimes the generator can loose it residual magnetism if it has sat idle for a long period of time. Simply supply battery voltage to the output stud to remagnetize the generator. The easiest way to do this is to use a short wire to jump the 2 cutout terminals for 1 or 2 seconds.
If you have one of John Regan's can type regulators, he says DO NOT polarize by jumping across the 2 terminals. In that case, I'd remove the regulator and touch battery voltage to the generator output stud for 1 or 2 seconds, then reinstall the regulator. This way there would be no chance of burning out the regulator.
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Tom, I know now that it turned out cardoza had a cut out. Just for the sake that anybody following this thread doesn't get the wrong impression, I would like to say this. The cut out will function the same positive or negative ground and you can polarize the generator by jumping across the terminals. I know that you mean well and please don't take this as me being a smartazz. There are two seperate versions of the 6 volt can regulator that John makes. One is made for positive ground and a different model is made for negative ground and they will not work vise versa. You also can't polarize across the posts of either.