Re: Black single stage paint.
The single most important parts of the job are the prep work and quality of materials.
Are you planning to strip the paint off of the car before you apply new paint? I hope so - especially if there are any issues with cracking, lifting, bubbling, etc.. If you try to apply new paint (especially lacquer) over older paint - you can easily have adhesion problems - due to the solvent penetrating down into the old material. If you have any doubts, strip the car, redo any sketchy body work, use quality epoxy primers for sealing, etc..
There are many different brands/types of paint that you can use - and some are a lot harder to apply than others (depending on your skills). Do you have experience painting any type of automotive paint -- lacquer, enamel, acrylic enamel, urethane, etc?
Do you have a decent quality HVLP paint gun? If not, I recommend the DevilBliss StartingLine or FinishLine guns . . . both spray remarkably well for the price. I tend to use these guns for a lot of my smaller work - versus the high-end SATA stuff I have.
You'll find that removing the doors and painting them "flat" will give you the best possible results (if ur not a professional painter). I usually recommend painting the door jambs of the body and the doors - always looks better. I paint the jambs on the doors first, then mask them off before I do the outside areas. BUT, this requires all rubber stripping be removed, a lot of extra prep, masking, etc..
If you are new to painting, consider doing some test work on an old fender (something you can get at a junkyard). Do all the prep, do the primer, do the sealer and then apply the paint. If the paint is going to be rubbed out, then do this as well. Take time to learn on something you're not in love with . . . before you paint your car.
Enough outta me!
B&S
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