I managed to get back at it, finished the stand bracket and got to disassembly. I am thinking at this point, the metal bits in the oil were from the circlip damage to the #3 cylinder wall and the locking tabs on the rod nuts. The rods in this thing are 29A6205(more on these later), instead of holes for a cotter pin and castle nut, they have locking tab washers. X5 of the locking tabs were missing, snapped off. When I was removing the remaining locking tabs, a few more broke right off while the others just bent over.
Broken locking tab - MIA
The connecting rod bearings need to be replaced so I will get the rod big holes cleaned up and see if floating bearings are available in the closest oversize. If I can't find the bearings, I can use 8ba rods and insert bearings. The C59A crank has x2 oil holes on each rod journal unlike the 59A which only had x1. The rod journal sizes are the same from 45-53.
Interesting to note the 59A block typically has "59" cast in the top center of the bellhousing. This C59A block does not have "59" cast in the bellhousing but instead has "C59A" cast on the front left head on the block.
Here is a pic of the only cast numbers on the bellhousing.
Check out the wear on this oil relief valve plunger.
Con rod journals don't look too bad.
The block and all that is/was on it was made in Canada from what I can tell. Except the oil pump. Says USA right on it. Whether this was a replacement or original hardware, I don't know.
What I would like to know is how to distinguish a 50lb pump from an 80lb pump. Model number or can you tell by counting the gear teeth? When the motor was running previous, it had 2 gauges. The stock dash gauge read up to #50. The needle would always shoot up past 50 and stay there when running, hot or cold. A mechanical aftermarket gauge mounted under the dash read up to #60. It would sit at #50 cold and #35-#40 warm idle.
Got all the pistons removed, tackled one valve after making a valve spring tool. Will get the rest out tomorrow hopefully.
