My SEWAG on this:
See reference about a small oil leak in your post #24.
1. Did you know that one cause of rear main leaks is restriction of the breather pipe?
Be sure that the breather tube cap that you use does not have a "Scotchbright" Pad or similar stuffed in the cap or tube.
These pads have been the cause of at least 3 or 4 engine rebuilds.
One guy had an engine fail, he paid $3500 to rebuild a second.
He put the same OLD "scotchbright" cap on his new engine and 70 miles later the oil pan was empty!!
2. See Post 1 photo 3: You have a breather extension tube installed. If you look closely you will see that the flexible tube is about third the diameter of the the breather-tube.
3. This restricts the passage of crankcase fumes which increases back pressure in crank case which sometimes is enough to force oil from the rear main which has NO seal as designed by Ford.
4. Removing this device MIGHT slow down your rear main leak.
5, THERE ARE CHEAP repro BREATHER CAPS THAT WILL BLOCK the breather when the cap is
slammed on after adding oil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Licensed to kill
Update. Installed new values and guides. "modern" type from brattons. Ground seats and valves to achieve a good seat and proper lash (don't have adjustable lifters). Car runs great. No more back firing on deceleration, runs much smoother at higher RPM and pulls reasonably well. That's the good news. The bad news is that the oil consumption is unchanged and that annoying slight "knocking" sound is still there (didn't expect the valve job to affect that anyway). After a 100 mile run, parked the car and after an hour or so was a spot of oil about the size of a golf ball under the bell housing. I expect there to be some but don't know if this is about right or too much or????. Gong to pull the pan again and recheck the bearing clearances in the hunt for the noise. Again though, perhaps this is just how a model A sounds , I don't know.
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