Quote:
Originally Posted by goodoldvic
I don't see any torque plates on the engine block while it is being honed. I'm honing mine in my garage, by hand, and no plates. I thought a reputable rebuilder as J&M would use torque plates. Just an observation on my part.
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I'm glad you mentioned it. Mike K gives a fine example and explanation.
Torque plates are designed to induce stress to simulate a assembled engine to recreate the cylinder head stress that the cylinders can be honed accurately.
Stock Model A engines don't have high cylinder pressure nor do they run at high RPM's. They have thick wall castings so distortion is held to a minimum as "MikeK" mentioned .0002" hardly anything to get worried about since cylinder wall to piston clearance is .003".
If you noticed I had mentioned in the video during the honing process; I'll alternate the holes honed to eliminate the heat generated during honing.
If I were to do two holes in close proximity of each other that portion of the block would grow.
I alternate the holes doing number three first and then number one hole.
Even only removing .005" as I mentioned in the video the friction of the stones during the honing process generates heat.
Modern engine cylinder walls are much thinner and require the torque plate.
GM LS block and Ford Triton 5.4/4.6 for example and others.
These engines also deal with higher cylinder pressures and have to operate in higher temperature zone near 200 degrees.
Since you are doing work by hand the key for you to remember is choose the right stone and measure constantly.