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A quick note on function. The dovetail is there to just hold the door in a
vertical position. If everything is set up right they belt line on the door will stay lined up with the body belt line. If you are unsure of which is the correct dovetail, it becomes painfully obvious when you screw the dovetail on and try to shut the door.
Yes, I've figured this point out by simply assembling the car. And I want to keep my body lines/beads straight.
All slants used the new style female dovetails that had the diecast sliders in them. I believe on the fordors they were spot welded to the inside of the post. I know the 68C and the 400A screwed them to the wood in the door post and I believe the vicky was the same.
That's correct, on Vicky's the dovetails screwed into the wooden b-pillar.
The reproduction female dove tails are not right as you get them. Depending on the vintage they will hurt your male dovetail and not allow your door to close. As far as I am aware there are two reproductions. Bert's had a guy make some and A&L now makes them.
Both reproductions were using the wrong springs. The slider MUST be able to slide in and out with moderate finger pressure. They uses springs that were too strong and the sliders barely moved. A&L recently restored a slant and found the doors would not close right and remembered some guy telling him the springs were wrong. He put in lighter springs and the doors started working. My guess is if you bought the A&L kind they will set you up with the proper springs.
This seems to be the problem – I can barely move the sliders with a screwdriver with the dovetail clamped in a vise.
When I did mine I got the type made by the Berts guy. The back part was just not correctly formed and could never allow the sliders to move properly. They taper narrow at the back if I remember correctly. The sliders were also junk. The face plate was almost exact. Except the lip around the edges was too high and would not allow it set in properly. This can affect door gap. I put them on a mill and took off the small amount needed to get them to sit right. The A&L product has the same problem. I used the original back sides with cut down NOS V8 sliders and original springs and the Berts face plates cut down. I got and exact fit and function.
A&L I believe uses an exact copy of the sliders and the back is done correct. The 4 holes did not properly line up on the very early production unit I had in my hands. Do not know what they have now. The A&L unit should function properly with the correct springs.
I've never heard of A&L. Can you give me more info on them? I think I need to buy their dovetails with the lighter springs.
Thanks for your help.