[Kube]

Um yeah, I can.

In my opinion, it is much easier and quicker in the long run to remove the engine in order to remove the pan.
If that's not in your future:
Remove the floor boards and transmission cover.
Remove the starter.
Remove the bolts that hold the transmission to the pan. Leave the others installed.
Remove the chatter rods from the frame and engine. Do not leave them in the block!
Remove the transmission mounts.
Remove the engine mounts at the water pumps.
Remove the drag link and tie rod.
Remove the dip stick and tube.
Remove the fuel pump and fuel pump stand.
Jack up the front of the engine as far as possible. Place blocks between the foot of each water pump and the front cross member.
Remove all of the bolts that are currently holding the pan to the block. Break the seal of the gasket.
Now it's time to lower the pan. You may very well have to turn the engine until the crankshaft (front) throw is at it's high point. This allows a bit more clearance to remove the pan.

Once the pan is off, removing the oil pump is a straight forward task. Only one bolt holds it to the block. The head of the bolt was originally safety wired.


I find it best to remove the engine (and quicker) for a couple of reasons. The biggest reason? Installing the pan from below and getting the gaskets in proper position is a pain in the butt. Plus, if you don't get the rear seal in correctly, well, you won't know until you drive the car. Do you really want to risk doing this task twice?

Now, may I ask why you want to remove the pan and pump?