[crazycasey]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

I am the author of the 68C website.

That’s great. I’ve found it to be a helpful reference, if not slightly full of doom and gloom about the current state of reproduction parts.

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

I can tell you that the reproduction lid is made for the the reproduction hinges. The originals will NOT fit.

I believe you that the lid may be made for the repro hinges, and you’ve posted this notion so many times in so many places that I was definitely very hesitant to send Brentwood Bob the nearly $90 it took to get a set of OE hinges to me, but in the end I took the chance and they fit just fine. They were also MUCH closer to lining up with the brackets. In my opinion, the OE hinges are the way to go. I don’t mean to invalidate your experience, but you should consider how the magnitude of your postings could possibly be steering folks away from the easier solution.

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

When I bought the Brookville lid and hinges I had the same problem you are having. I sent the lid back and the sent me a new lid that the hinges will come out to the correct distance apart.

I probably should have done this from the get-go. I believe that Brookville may tailor a deck lid to fit differently if they know it’s going on an original body, with originals parts, or vice versa.

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

Do not try to bend the hinges, they will break. I know.

I can believe this.

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

The reproduction hinges are small in every direction. I could believe they are directly molded from factory hinges and the metal would shrink in every direction.

I believe you are exactly correct, here.

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

The being kept in mind.
Once you make the hinges have the correct width to fit the space between the brackets on the quarter panels you will next have to make the hole in that bracket larger to work with the shorter hinge.

Mine was so far off that I would have had to grind away the entire bracket. They were an inch low, an inch back, and an inch inward of where the aftermarket hinges wanted them to be.

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

I would start with a call to Brookville. You need to find out which parts are not in the correct position. You did not include pictures of the outside of the lid. How well does the edges of the qtrs match the sides of the lid?

You are correct. But it is in the video.

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

You are also going to have to relocate the rumble latch position to get the body lines to match up and prevent from pulling down the rumble lid sheet metal. The latch collar MUST touch the metal under the latch handle hole. You may also have to relocate the hole a bit to be correct.

I’m not sure I follow you 100% here. I did have to raise the catch on the panel above decklid slightly. I accomplished this by slotting the holes and building a backing plate. The latch mechanism and handle both fit the lid just fine.

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

Yes, I did all of the above to get the lid to fit properly on my cabriolet.

I have no doubt, but I think that every one of these bodies are a bit different, and then all of the panels are also a bit different. And I think sometimes all of those tolerances stack up on us in an unfavorable direction, and it’s a real mess. Conversely, some folks probably just get lucky.

Thanks for all of the feedback. Check out my videos. I’ve got about 35 minutes between part 1 https://youtu.be/YueQrHppljw and part 2 https://youtu.be/fdi5GMPqFDs that take me from the ill-fitting mess in those first pictures, to a smooth opening rumble lid that looks at least “ok” from the outside.