Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol' Ron
I have a 5C 1 1/32 Collette for my Lathe that I used to knurl and ream in one pass. Takes about a minute per guide. I use back gear in the lathe to reduce reamer ware. However I've never considered the Keeper location as a factor on spring length. Learn sumpiin new every day. However I do measure the installed height of the spring, but not all 16. I wonder what the difference could be?? With all the modifications we make to these engines, this is just one more thing to check. One thing I do know and that is the valve stem clearance in NEW guides are all over the place. I just Knurl the old ones and don't run any seals. I did run a few back 30 years ago, but feel thrir unnecessary with a tight stem. In my next build the guides will be permanently installed in the block and the springs will be installed at final assy. like when using the dual springs. UGH!!
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Hi Ron, many sending their guides here DO NOT want that "lip" on top removed (not sure if that's in your plan there?) so they can use the "pry-bar" to install the valve/guide assy's. I've never used that method, never owned that bar, and have no plans on changing our present procedure.
Talking the 8BA platform here (most of what I have here normally) I can remove 16 valves/guides OR reinstall 16 of them in about 30 minutes or less. Removing them occasionally is slightly more time-consuming but still not a real issue, going back together on final (everything cleaned/machined) I can do all in well under 30 minutes. Have done many in this time-frame.
Back to the fixture. I'll place a short series of photo's below, very interesting for sure if you understand machining processes. I know you (Ron) are?
We can now do every required procedure to install liners, install full 1-pc guides, .502" x .343" or even smaller, .312", on the stems including pressing them in place, cut for the Viton seals, repair any broken tops, and just about any other needed operation WITHOUT ever removing the original guides. This was my goal and I believe we did "hit-the-mark". Just need to try a few more of my own pieces before I call it a total success.
If you follow the photo sequence below it's fairly easy to see all the necessary steps and exactly what can be accomplished!
I can remove the fixture totally off any machine, hold it my hand, and mount it back on again. The guides NEVER have to come out until totally done. This is what I needed to make it all happen!
On a side note, one of main concerns was being able to the OEM exhaust guides which don't have any "seal-groove", therefore I couldn't rely on that groove for any referencing, it makes no difference now, it worked out well,
we don't need it. Couple more final touches and we're set (I think)?
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. I still could use some thicknesses from up here between the spring register's and the top horseshoe groove? These photos are for installing a 1-pc guide INSIDE the original (the one shown is bronze, you can do a cast one, same procedure). First shot, core-drill, ream to fit .500" guide, install guides, cut for seals, finish size, either ream (not recommended) or hone to size. This step isn't showing here, guides are only for display. Liners are done exactly the same way, guides NEVER leave the fixture.
I can "core-drill and ream" (for the 1-pc guides) ALL 16 of them in a few minutes! Look very closely at the guide in the reaming shot, the top is "broken", it is still totally usable when done (except for the "lip") however.