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Richard Delahay · 12-07-2018, 11:46 AM

Ford Barners, many thanks for your interest in my ignit ion problem.
History;
Stock 6 volt ignition worked after restoration with new rotor and capacitor. Ballast resistor in place.
Then coil failed after 3 months.
New coil (dome top) from major supplier in USA fitted.
This new coil failed after few weeks.
Supplier not interested in conversation.Uneconomic to ship failed coil to USA.
Remote 6 volt coil fitted, OK when cold, severe missing when hot. Removed ballast resistor solved missing problem and car ran OK for 10 years.......
......then missing returned when engine warmed up.

DiagnostIc effort resulted in new parts being fitted and tried out one at a time without solving problem. Parts were: plugs, all HT leads, remote coil, points, capacitor and rotor.
At this stage engine would idle OK, but ran rough when hot.
I then tested a new purchase rotor (believed NOS) by leaving ignition configuration as above and added a second HT lead to coil output in parallel to the stock lead. Second HT lead connected to the second NOS rotor brass slip ring. Second NOS rotor mounted on a screwdriver steel shank. Engine idling and screwdriver tip brought near cast iron engine head. Engine continues to idle OK and sparks regularly occur between tip of screwdriver and engine head ! Ergo leaky rotor demonstrated.

(Rotor supplier in UK not interested in this discussion)
Next move, fit a 1942 crab type distributor with new points, rotor, cap and capacitor. Result, perfect performance for 12 months and still OK today.
Good result believed to be due to better insulation material available for crab type parts. Note, new rotor for 1942 distributor passes the screwdriver test!!!

So my search for 1934 parts is to enable a return to original configuration. Meanwhile car (model 40 fordor) been in the same family since 1945, is running OK.

12-07-2018, 11:46 AM	#8
Richard Delahay Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2018 Posts: 4	Re: 1934 Ford model 40 Distributor Ford Barners, many thanks for your interest in my ignit ion problem. History; Stock 6 volt ignition worked after restoration with new rotor and capacitor. Ballast resistor in place. Then coil failed after 3 months. New coil (dome top) from major supplier in USA fitted. This new coil failed after few weeks. Supplier not interested in conversation.Uneconomic to ship failed coil to USA. Remote 6 volt coil fitted, OK when cold, severe missing when hot. Removed ballast resistor solved missing problem and car ran OK for 10 years....... ......then missing returned when engine warmed up. DiagnostIc effort resulted in new parts being fitted and tried out one at a time without solving problem. Parts were: plugs, all HT leads, remote coil, points, capacitor and rotor. At this stage engine would idle OK, but ran rough when hot. I then tested a new purchase rotor (believed NOS) by leaving ignition configuration as above and added a second HT lead to coil output in parallel to the stock lead. Second HT lead connected to the second NOS rotor brass slip ring. Second NOS rotor mounted on a screwdriver steel shank. Engine idling and screwdriver tip brought near cast iron engine head. Engine continues to idle OK and sparks regularly occur between tip of screwdriver and engine head ! Ergo leaky rotor demonstrated. (Rotor supplier in UK not interested in this discussion) Next move, fit a 1942 crab type distributor with new points, rotor, cap and capacitor. Result, perfect performance for 12 months and still OK today. Good result believed to be due to better insulation material available for crab type parts. Note, new rotor for 1942 distributor passes the screwdriver test!!! So my search for 1934 parts is to enable a return to original configuration. Meanwhile car (model 40 fordor) been in the same family since 1945, is running OK.