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Guardian1fox2 · 05-25-2022, 01:29 PM

New member here!

I’m on MTFCA forum too, but that forum is mostly older guys that are more focused with keeping things stock and original. They have been extremely helpful, but I’m looking for advice outside of that realm if you will lol I’m on a budget and limited experience.

I got a 1923 Model T, no clue what it started life as, as when I got it it was just the car without a body…just the closed cab cowl previous owner installed. I’ve decided to build a speedster or “racer” so been going down that path. It was sitting for about 7 years or so…previous owner had rebuilt engine and was slowly building the car up…but got sick, put it on jack stands, drained fluids then passed away. I got it, and worked getting it going and finally got it running.

So far I’ve had original radiator cleaned and some stuff fixed on it like new inlet installed. Flushed engine with oil and marvel after running, new plugs, just bunch of easy maintenance stuff.

Now I’m making changes. The coils that were on it were repros and don’t work well. I picked up a Bosch DU4 side drive mag/dizzy with mount/gear that I rebuilt and installing since i have a spot for a generator but don’t have one. Getting a lake style exhaust header built with a plate I’m having machined. Got gas tank off and moving back (looking for some seats instead of using my bench), cowl off.

Next in the list is lowering steering column which looks to be easy with a wedge, and lowering the front and rear. I’ve got no experience welding so im in a pickle with that. I know a Z bracket for the front and Zing the rear are common, even with the Z rear bracket they sell. Front requires splitting wishbone and some welding etc…especially for rear. I found a guy that sells drop axles…but the Z rear bolt in bracket is a 5” drop…a drop axle is 3”, coupled with reverse eye front spring 1”…then maybe 26 spindles for another 1in…just seems complicated, plus I’d have to fit the spindles to the new axle and not sure how to do that correctly. Laurel style brackets would be awesome but they stopped selling those too.

So…I was thinking about doing it like I’ve seen a bunch of pics just bending the springs (not with heat) and get it lowered that way…for now until I get the funds to get it done another way. I got a spring shop in town that is willing to check it out…my question is how far do I tell him to bend them? I “think” it’s like 4” from the perches on rear where you start…but no clue how far and the angles. I don’t want the bends touching axles of course. I’ll include pics on some racers I’ve seen like this.

Next question is carb. I do plan on swapping the head with a Sherman style high compression head one day. Go with a 280 cam if I get into engine at some point. But was kind of wanting to run a downdraft carb for now and then have it when everything else was done. I know 97s are common in the model A world…but could I down jet a 97 to work on a model T? It’s only gonna go so fast anyway due to rpm limitations and I’m not trying to make a death machine, just something neat to put around in. I have talked with some guys that run a 97 on their Ts, but they’ve got other mods too. The low compression being the main issue I think on a stock T. Or is there a downdraft single barrel carb that would work well? I’ll need to find an intake that would accept it of course. I could always weld two more tubes upward on my plate and attach a carb plate to mount. I’m having the original Wizard carburetor rebuilt by Snyders now. I found a rayfield but idk something about a downdraft on a banger looks good lol.

Anyways, I’m also looking for wheel options to get away from my wood wheels although new. I know I can use model A wires with the adaptors, or T wires with wire hubs and drums redrilled and swapped on rear. But finding a not so rusted out set in Louisiana is difficult lol.

I also wanna build a cowl. Basically after using poster board to get the shape, just grab some sheet metal and cutting it into shape and just bending into a U shape. I’m not sure how to build like the supports. Do I use wood and rivet it to it? Or maybe some angle iron bolted?

Well I think that’s it for now, I’m sure I forgot some. I’ll include some pics here. I got some front and rear fenders, mounts, splash guards, and other stuff if anyone needs them if they’re around me or if they got some parts I may need!

05-25-2022, 01:29 PM	#1
Guardian1fox2 Junior Member Join Date: May 2022 Location: Louisiana Posts: 4	Questions: carb, lowering, others New member here! I’m on MTFCA forum too, but that forum is mostly older guys that are more focused with keeping things stock and original. They have been extremely helpful, but I’m looking for advice outside of that realm if you will lol I’m on a budget and limited experience. I got a 1923 Model T, no clue what it started life as, as when I got it it was just the car without a body…just the closed cab cowl previous owner installed. I’ve decided to build a speedster or “racer” so been going down that path. It was sitting for about 7 years or so…previous owner had rebuilt engine and was slowly building the car up…but got sick, put it on jack stands, drained fluids then passed away. I got it, and worked getting it going and finally got it running. So far I’ve had original radiator cleaned and some stuff fixed on it like new inlet installed. Flushed engine with oil and marvel after running, new plugs, just bunch of easy maintenance stuff. Now I’m making changes. The coils that were on it were repros and don’t work well. I picked up a Bosch DU4 side drive mag/dizzy with mount/gear that I rebuilt and installing since i have a spot for a generator but don’t have one. Getting a lake style exhaust header built with a plate I’m having machined. Got gas tank off and moving back (looking for some seats instead of using my bench), cowl off. Next in the list is lowering steering column which looks to be easy with a wedge, and lowering the front and rear. I’ve got no experience welding so im in a pickle with that. I know a Z bracket for the front and Zing the rear are common, even with the Z rear bracket they sell. Front requires splitting wishbone and some welding etc…especially for rear. I found a guy that sells drop axles…but the Z rear bolt in bracket is a 5” drop…a drop axle is 3”, coupled with reverse eye front spring 1”…then maybe 26 spindles for another 1in…just seems complicated, plus I’d have to fit the spindles to the new axle and not sure how to do that correctly. Laurel style brackets would be awesome but they stopped selling those too. So…I was thinking about doing it like I’ve seen a bunch of pics just bending the springs (not with heat) and get it lowered that way…for now until I get the funds to get it done another way. I got a spring shop in town that is willing to check it out…my question is how far do I tell him to bend them? I “think” it’s like 4” from the perches on rear where you start…but no clue how far and the angles. I don’t want the bends touching axles of course. I’ll include pics on some racers I’ve seen like this. Next question is carb. I do plan on swapping the head with a Sherman style high compression head one day. Go with a 280 cam if I get into engine at some point. But was kind of wanting to run a downdraft carb for now and then have it when everything else was done. I know 97s are common in the model A world…but could I down jet a 97 to work on a model T? It’s only gonna go so fast anyway due to rpm limitations and I’m not trying to make a death machine, just something neat to put around in. I have talked with some guys that run a 97 on their Ts, but they’ve got other mods too. The low compression being the main issue I think on a stock T. Or is there a downdraft single barrel carb that would work well? I’ll need to find an intake that would accept it of course. I could always weld two more tubes upward on my plate and attach a carb plate to mount. I’m having the original Wizard carburetor rebuilt by Snyders now. I found a rayfield but idk something about a downdraft on a banger looks good lol. Anyways, I’m also looking for wheel options to get away from my wood wheels although new. I know I can use model A wires with the adaptors, or T wires with wire hubs and drums redrilled and swapped on rear. But finding a not so rusted out set in Louisiana is difficult lol. I also wanna build a cowl. Basically after using poster board to get the shape, just grab some sheet metal and cutting it into shape and just bending into a U shape. I’m not sure how to build like the supports. Do I use wood and rivet it to it? Or maybe some angle iron bolted? Well I think that’s it for now, I’m sure I forgot some. I’ll include some pics here. I got some front and rear fenders, mounts, splash guards, and other stuff if anyone needs them if they’re around me or if they got some parts I may need!